Well I have both the fbody cam and the cam that came out of the roadmaster. The engine is completely apart right now so do you think I should go with the fbody cam? The motor has iron heads on it and it will be going into a 1990 TA with a 4l60e with 3000stall and 3.73 gears.

 

Ditch them both, and give Brett a call..... Or find a cheap used hotcam or CC350?

Out of those 2...use the f-bod one.

 

^-----call brett, believe me it will be worth it

 

Fbody cam if it has to be one of those two.

 

You guys think just a cam upgrade would do much for me on my stock motor? I probably have around 200 to spend on a cam if its really worth it.

 

YES!!!

 

lol..it would do a hell of alot..but it would cost a lilmore than 200....if you do a hotcam..you can use the hotcam springs..which are cheap.

 

It'll definately be worht upgrading the cam if you have full exhaust and some type of induction system. If you plan on leaving everything stock, youre not really going to notice much. I know a guy who had a stock car, put a hotcam in it, as its only modification, and dynoed essentially the same numbers.

Keep in mind you'll need to do valve springs as well. As long as you stay with the stock rockers, you can run most popular cams with LT4 valve springs which are good up to .525 lift. These springs run about $40. Most hydraulic roller cams run about $250, but you might be able to pick up the hotcam a little cheaper.

 

I do have banks exhaust system and mac midlengths and i was thinking of doing a cold air intake on the car.
LT4 springs and hotcam would give me something I would notice then?

 

That would be a big YES. Pick up a good used hotcam and a new set of LT4 springs. Great bang for the buck set-up.

 

having trouble finding the springs online

 

You can get them from your GM parts dealer for about $40.

 

You guys missed where it has iron heads which the LT4 springs will not fit unless he pays to have the spring pockets machined and then he still gets a fairly crappy spring which would be OK with 1.5s but is marginal with LT1 valves and 1.6 rockers.

Also the b-body motor was rated at 260/330 as opposed to what 275/325 for the f-body motor BUT the b-body motor had the grandma quiet intake and exhaust and was tuned for 87 instead of 91 octane and the b-body torque peak occured at a little lower rpm. Now the iron heads are little better than most of the aluminums, but still consider the above facts and the b-body cam is much better than most of you want to give it credit for.

I would agree that you would be better off with an aftermarket cam but with just $200 to spend pick one of the ones you have and upgrade the springs, save the rest of the money for unexpected expenses as you assemble the motor.