LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

fan question

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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 09:40 AM
  #1  
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fan question

This is for the LT1 in my '35 Ford. I have a walker radiator and cooling components fan and shroud. What I hadn't thought of until now is that since I now have one fan instead of two how will the computer handle this? Will it just turn on the one fan at 226* and do nothing for the second setting? should I edit out the second setting? Thanks
Old Oct 20, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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Assuming you have it wired to the LH fan connector, it will only turn on the one fan at full speed @ 226°. The second fan threshold setting won't have any effect.
Old Oct 20, 2010 | 09:57 AM
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thanks for the quick response shoebox. I should have specifed. I am using the stock engine harness, but also an aftermarket harness for everything else. The harness has a wire for the fan back to a relay in the fuse block so I am not using the stock camaro connectors at all. This is why I am not sure how the computer will handle it.
Old Oct 20, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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I feel it would still work as I indicated, if you only have one fan relay.
Old Oct 20, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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Forgive me, but does the fan turning on "at full speed" indicate the fan speed or vehicle speed? I assume that it would be the fan turning at full speed at 226*, correct?
Old Oct 20, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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Full fan speed.

There are actually two different "stock" configurations - fan 1/fan 2 (both fixed speeds, used 93-early 94), and both fans low/both fans high (used late 94-97). If you trigger the relay with the PCM signal for relay #1 (pin A11) your fan will tune on at 226*F. If you used pin A10, it would turn your fan on at 235*F. This assumes you still have stock programming in the PCM.
Old Oct 20, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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yep stock programming. Thanks a lot guys.
Old Oct 21, 2010 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
Full fan speed.

There are actually two different "stock" configurations - fan 1/fan 2 (both fixed speeds, used 93-early 94), and both fans low/both fans high (used late 94-97). If you trigger the relay with the PCM signal for relay #1 (pin A11) your fan will tune on at 226*F. If you used pin A10, it would turn your fan on at 235*F. This assumes you still have stock programming in the PCM.
Man I wish you were closer, would love to check the 35 out. I have a 35 chevy 4 door standard that I will hopefully be able to start working on next year..

Injuneer is always correct, but I'll break it down for you. The 93/94 just sent 12 volts to one or both fans. 94-97 used a series/parallel setup. On low they put +12v on one side of the fan, connected the other side to the next fan, then to ground, so essentially both fans are sharing the +12v, so they're both running @ +6V or half speed (series). Once the a/c or thermostat sends a signal the relays change the setup so both fans run at +12v (parallel).

If you're using a aftermarket relay, put ignition to pin 85, fan cooling relay control #1 (pin A11 on ecm) to pin 86. Put +12v fused from the battery to pin 30 and run 87 to the positive side of the fan, then ground the other pin.

I've done a lot of wiring on putting LT1s in S10s and Jeeps, I love the fan setup. I've got 00 LS1 fans in my daily driver s10 with a custom fan relay combo I mimicked from the above mentioned fan setup. Works awesome.
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 07:04 AM
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Well since you're interested here's a few pics for you. I am cutting up my rear bumper brackets to fit a 37 front bumper on the back because it fits the fenders perfectly. The wheels will probably be 15/17 Billet Specialties Vintec and we haven't bought a new 3 piece hood or billet grill yet. We're going to drive it pretty much as is with no hood to work some things out then paint it candy apple or maybe red jewel tincoat in a year or two. I don't have the fan mounted in that pic, but other than that and door handles this is how it sits now. I like the 34/35 Chevys. I wouldn't mind a 3 window coupe to go with this one. I like that they are a little smaller. four doors much like any 35 ford have not gotten much love, but are certainly coming around in recent years. Post some pics of the 34 if you have any.

Honestly I'm barely hanging on to how you are explaining that. Ignition to pin 85 - does that mean the fan turns on with the ignition? Is pin 85,86, and 87 in the ecm? The Cooling Components fan has three wires set up to use thier relay kit - tan, black and white. Without their relay kit tan goes to the relay, white is not used and black obviously grounds. Can you explain what you are saying accomplishes?

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Last edited by blackbirdta; Oct 22, 2010 at 09:08 AM.
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:03 AM
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if wireing is not your thing,( im no good at it) you can simplify the system and hotwire your fan to a toggle and turn it on when you want, be sure to use a fuse to prevent fire
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbirdta

Honestly I'm barely hanging on to how you are explaining that. Ignition to pin 85 - does that mean the fan turns on with the ignition? Is pin 85,86, and 87 in the ecm? The Cooling Components fan has three wires set up to use thier relay kit - tan, black and white. Without their relay kit tan goes to the relay, white is not used and black obviously grounds. Can you explain what you are saying accomplishes?
I'm not an expert but I will try to make it clear as mud for you.

The factory relays would allow the 6v/12v combo. If you aren't running those by switching the wiring around on the pins you are simply reverting back to a more simple 12v on/off system- (I would assume).

With the one fan I would simply have it come on/off at your desired temps controlled by the computer. By switching the pins around you are eliminating some of the advanced controls the computer has with the fans.

The only way I would have a toggle control is to piggyback in a master switch to turn the fans on should you need to for some reason....but with a car like that the less clutter the better IMO.

Classics are meant to have a nice clean look to them- which I might add you have a nice start on! Keep up the good work...
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 09:00 AM
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Yea I don't want to use a switch by itself. Maybe as a backup, but I don't see a need to not just let the computer do it in most cases. Especially on this car, I have enough going on. I guess I just don't have a clear understanding of how the pins are set up, but it seems logical to me that if I have one fan it will just turn on at 226*, but maybe Hotwire can explain further or Shoebox or Injuneer can confirm again that the stock configuration will at least work ok.

Also, I am using an OBD II ECM so unless I switch it, little to no reprogramming at this point is ideal.

Last edited by blackbirdta; Oct 22, 2010 at 09:03 AM.
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 09:57 AM
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Couldn't you just use a temperature controlled switch and run the fans that way?
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 10:04 AM
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that would be simple and eliminate the toggle
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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Sorry to confuse things.

The ECM will pull ground to turn the fan on, so one side of the relay coil needs to be hot w/ the igntion (pin 85 of the relay or tan wire in your kit). Then black goes to the fan #1 controller pin of the ECM. I don't have a obd2 pinout in front of me, so you'll have to get that one from your schematics. I think they're the same as obd1 though..

SO.. Tan to hot when ignition is on, black to ecm fan controller pin. Done. I'm assuming the relay kit also has a battery wire and fan wire, correct?

I've got a much longer path than you on my 35, haven't even had a chance to get a jack on it yet. http://s778.photobucket.com/albums/y...et%20Standard/



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