What are the problems or extra parts I will need.

I plan to do the following, header install, ory from pacesetter, header gaskets, 02 sims for the 2 post cat o2 sensors, 02 extensions for the front 2. I plan to just bolt it upto my stock exhaust for the time being, I was told you could do it.

Any problems people have had installing them on a 96 z28/ta/formula? I plan to jack the car up on jack stands in the garage.

 

I did it on jack stands as well. You need to jack it ALL the way up to slide them in, but you can do it. You will want some PB Blaster, some gasket sealer, and a large tube to get some torque to break some of the stock exhaust bolts loose (I used the handle to my floor jack). Some socket extensions and universal joints are good too. I really didn't need any other parts. I also did not need to jack up my engine or remove my valve covers, just the oil filter and some heat shields. Post if you have any troubles and you should be good to go! Good Luck!

 

If you want now would be a good time to do a tranny and motor mounts.

Just take your time and dont get to frustrated. I did mine in a shop with a lift, plenty of tools, and a friend. It took 2 days and i finished up out in the parking lot because they closed. I drove home open headers and that was amazeing.

If you plan on changeing the O2 sensors wait a couple hundred miles after you install the headers because stuff burning off the headers will likely foul the O2 sensors.

And make sure you go through a few heat cycles and be sure to retighten your header bolts frequently until they stop backing off.

Have fun.

 

If you're keeping the air pipes you'll need adaptors for the threaded connections. Then the hose for the driver side I ordered a hose for the right side from GM and cut to fit to join the left together.

 

Mine mated up without any modification. Now the EGR pipe on the other hand was a PITA.

 

Is the EGR/AIR pipes different? 96Flame can you explain what you did better? Thanks.

What did you have to do w/ the egr pipe, is that the pipe located near the front of the engine in the drivers side header?

 

As long as the headers you buy are for that correct year car you wont need any adapeters for the AIR stuff. For the EGR tube, bolt it to the header first, then to the back of the intake.

 

This would also be a great time to delete the EGR and AIR systems if you want also.

For me the EGR tube was a PITA because it wasnt lineing up with the fitting on the header, that and it is in a hard to get to spot and i have big hands so i could really get to it. But i eventualy got it connected. Then recently i just deleted my AIR and EGR systems.

 

Best advice would be to get the "emissions" style long tube to keep our local emissions inspectors happy. Also, get a few cans of PB Blaster as noted above and spray all of your old hardware for a couple of days. That way, you'll minimize the chance of snapping an old manifold bolt. Pacesetter supplies you with gaskets, but they are junk. I would look into an aftermarket replacement from Fel-Pro, Percys, ect. The AIR and EGR systems should bolt right up to your headers, no need to buy anything or "rig" anything up. As for the EGR, as mentioned by LT1 POWR, you may or may not have trouble lining up the EGR pipe with the EGR fitting on the header. I had this problem and I had to take the header back out of the car, heat up the EGR fitting with a propane torch, and bend it an additional inch towards the firewall. After all that, the EGR pipe mated right up to the EGR fitting on the header. By the way, the AIR system is the pipe that you are seeing on the drivers side front. The EGR is tucked away at the passenger side near cylinder 8.

 

Yeah apparently they shipped me a set of 94-95 headers so I had to get adaptors. If you get the right year you'll be alright. I had no problem with the EGR pipe but a hoist helps alot underneath.

 

And if you are taking off the emissions. You might want some sort of hack saw or an electric saw . Comes in handy taking off the old rusted on exhaust too. I got mine done just a couple weeks ago. I would sugest doing the motor mounts as well. Those are a little bit of a pain. But take out the stock exhaust and manifolds first before you do the motor mounts if you decide to do them. My car was in a wreck previously so I had to grind a little on the steering shaft and the k-member. So my install was a little harder then the normal. Just take your time. Also make sure to get 12 point sockets. Makes it so much easier.

 

I was'nt impressed with the gaskets pacesetter sent, so i bought crushed metal gaskets. A breaker bar is good to have as well as air tools, for removeing the stock y-pipe. Don't waste your time lifting the engine like some people might tell you, just get the front of the car up about 3 feet. Don't hesitate to remove the passenger side valve cover, I had to, you may not. And treat yourself to atleast a couple open header startups.