Right now im trying to figure if the 306 is going to be the right cam for me. my engine is a stock 97 lt1 but has headers and a full exhaust minus the cats. with only 70k on the engine and right now she is running stong with good oil press. what i need from you guys running stock bottom ends and heads are how many miles on the set up, your shift points and any other bolt on or otherwise performance part. thanks - TOT

 

Well, I rebuilt my lower end because I threw two connecting rods through the oil pan, And I put the CC306 in there after the rebuild. I shift anywhere between 6500-6700. Most people will also tell you to get some head work done as well to justify getting a cam of that size. And then some will just say get a custom ground one lol I really like it myself.

 

Did you just rebuild it as stock or add forged parts? and I was planning on porting the heads. I dont want to rebuild the bottom end but I dont want to throw a rod while im on the power tour next year.

 

All I want to do is pull the heads port them and throw a cam in there and maybe add bigger injectors. My goals are to drop down into the mid 12s and be streetable and still durable enough for a 2500 mile road trip. right now ive hit 13.4 @ 105

 

You'll be fine with Heads and Cam on the stock bottem end. Plenty of guys running 400rwhp+ through them. Just dont over rev and keep good oil in her. CC306 will pull high into the 6000's. I'd call Lloyd Elliot up and see what he can do for you, but the CC306 alone should be able to get you into the mid 12's. Try adding a E-WP too.

-Dustin-

 

Im real nervous swaping to an electric pump. I know a few guys swear by them. with the E-WP can 1 run a regular double roller timing set? what other modifications are involved with that.

 

You can run the Cloyes double roller with a E-WP. Save you some money on trying to get a LT1/LT4 style timing set. I swear by mine, almost 30k on it so far. A real nice gain too.

Just take your stocker, push out the internals, bolt up the E-WP and freeze plug the back side.

-Dustin-

 

Thanks Dustin, I may have to look into that. anybody have any horror stories about them failing?

 

I know where I live in Texas an e-wp on the street is a good way to overheat! Even Moroso and Meziere told me not to use their e-wp's on the street.

Zach

 

i've never herd of anyone overheating becuase of an electric waterpump... hell most people run cooler with it.

 

I have also never heard of anyone running hotter, unless it fails obviously. Does Moroso even make one for LT1's?

My car runs about 10-15 degrees cooler than it did with a stock WP and 160* stat.

There are plenty of horror stories about them failing. But if you get the right safety equipment, just like with N20, it will be a great thing to have.

There are documented gains of 10rwhp/10rwtq from them on relatively stock cars.

-Dustin-

 

I was told by Summit that the parts book for Meziere and Moroso said not to use the electric unit for street applications. I was told that they did not flow enough to keep my car cool for daily driving (sustained operating temps with varied RPM and changine air). I assume that was due to the electric flowing 35-50gpm and a mechanical flowing at least 70gpm for a stocker all the way up to 160gpm for a Stewart Stage 4 (The Stewart only uses 3hp to turn at 4500RPM) Could've been full of it I guess. I don't know if Moroso makes an electric unit for LT1's...but there are other engines out there besides the LT1. I was actually referring to information I received when building the LT4 engine in my Laguna (The ORIGINAL Gen I LT4...not the Gen II LT4).

Zach

 

Its just their disclaimer if something happens to your car on the street. If you use it for racing they'll say its cause you beat the thing real hard. Most of the parts on my car are "Off Road"

I bought a CSR and havent had one problem with it...knock on wood.

-Dustin-

 

You also don't need a huge cam for mid 12's. With ported heads/full weight, I ran a 12.495@115.11 with my old cam (210/224) bogging off the line to a 2.02 60' to save my rear end. With my new cam I'm going to try to hit low 12's on street tires. Bigger isn't always better. And with my mild cam I shift at 6500, so I'de imagine with a 306 you would be shifting around 7K...

 

I went a rebuild with the Hypereutechs, I was told if I was gonna stay NA it was the way to go. And the CC306 I believe makes power till 6800 like 2500-6800 or something like that 112LSA and I figured why change to an E-WP when my stock one is still working fine