well, i bought my camaro cheap bc it had a rod knocking, its going to the shop today to get all rebuilt, i was curious if theres anything cool to do while its all apart that might be worth it, its already got lt4 heads and intake and "hotcam" and 1.6 roller rockers and then the usual longtubes, msd opti etc...

ive read about a 355 and 383, should i bore/stroke out to either of those? also should i go with forged or the stock hyper pistons?
this car's purpose is just a fun little weekend toy. nothing for the strip or all out racing.

just thought id ask real quick just in case there was something
thanks

 

Depends really. Rebuilding won't give you any more HP. The cylinder heads and valvetrain make the power. The rotating assembly should be built for reliability and supporting the HP the heads/cam make.

Truthfully the sky is the limit. Your "bragging rights" are directly proportional to how much you want to spend.

 

Use stock pistons.
Torque plate hone(always)
Zero deck the block
Good valve job and quality springs.

Drive it.

 

If you bore/stroke it, I'd go with the 355. 383s are known to break apart like glass.

 

I'd like you to explain how/when/why/where they are breaking apart like glass? That honestly makes no effing sense.

-Dustin-

 

Maybe the guy I know didn't put his together correctly? Idk, just doesn't seem like he ever had much luck with it. Every time I'd turn around he'd be redoing something on that thing, of course this particular car is for track purposes only so I'd imagine it's not much of an issue to him. Besides, vangill clearly stated he's not using his car for the strip, just something to take out on the weekend. The bigger you go, the more mpg you sacrifice on an already unforgiving engine mileage-wise. The 355 will consume less fuel over time, making it more possible for him to drive it more on the weekends. Just my own opinion and experiences, take it for what you will.

 

You make an assumption of ALL 383's based on one knuckle head? Not cool

To answer the OP's question. Wouldn't this question of what was going to be done to the engine already have been answered before it went to the shop? Or is this something that needs be decided after they pull the engine apart?

Based on what you said and how you asked it, IMHO you should have gotten either a SB or a crate engine from a known good source that carries a lengthy warranty.

For what you are going to pay a shop to tear it down, do ALL the labor and put it back together. You could have had a great crate engine with a MUCH longer warranty. Compared to the local shop warranty of what? Probably a "tail light warranty".

But what do I know?

 

383's are "like glass"?

The LT1 is "and already unforgiving engine mileage wise"?

What are you talking about? There are 383 LT1's that have reliably produced over 1,000HP. There are 383 LT1's running 10's NA, and being driven to and from the track. I personally saw (and drove) a 383 LT1 that RELIABLY produced 1,125HP with 20+ # of boost, and pushed a 30th SS convertible that weighed close to 4,000# to 9.04 @ 156MPH. The LT1 was one of the highest EPA rated engines for fuel mileage in its time. There was negligible difference between the 3.4L V6 and the LT1 mileage ratings.

Sorry, just can't agree with either of those statements.

 

Pretty much the worst post, ever.

 

No, the worst post ever was deleted yesterday about the MSD opti.

 

damn smokey....

but to the OP yeah 383 man, when built correct you can drive her every day, and thats probably the only way to get horses from the bottom end reliably for a DD. I mean you should use only quality parts in the bottom end. and like already posted I think you could have picked up one of those crate 383s and dropped it in your self with a really good warranty for the price if not cheaper then having a shop remove tear down and build up then reinstall.... just my .02

 

 

I didn't think you were doing the work!!!!! Sorry about the warranty crack

I see your and raise you

 

Well, I stand corrected on the 383. My apologies if I offended anyone running that setup, it's just my buddy hasn't had much luck with it himself (cyl. head issue here, cooling issue there) seems it's been one thing after another for him. It's not even the fact that he's a knucklehead, he's very mechanically inclined, so i apologize if I came across that way in any way, shape, or form. Still, I shouldn't blindly blame it all on the build, that's not fair. Injuneer, you're def right about the 383 being perfectly capable of making that much power. It's just that it seems like the bigger you go (c.i. wise) the more you sacrifice mgg's. 383 is a beast of an engine to run at the track, no doubt about it. However, I got the impression from vangill that he's just interested in a weekend toy that he can drive anywhere he wants. My friend really only uses his car at the track anymore (it's got a cam, heads, bigger TB, true duals, LT's, and almost no interior from all the weight reduction he's done). Vangill could get good gains from a 355 and not sacrifice as many mpg's, that's all. It's his car though and he should do with it what he sees fit, just wanted to try and give a different perspective and maybe help him narrow his choice.

 

Second that

Thats what I did. Used Mahle .030" cast pistons, zero decked the block and topped it with a set of LE2 heads and LE ported intake.
crank was turned .010 undersize.
I also replaced the rod bolts with ARP.

You already have a nice top end on your short block.