Engine Swap Issues
Engine Swap Issues
I figured I'd probably have more before I'm through, but here's what I have right now. The throttle cable bracket for my 3.4 doesn't match up with the LT1. My question is, are the cables the same length, or do I need to replace those too? They look to me like they will reach (still doing some A4 to M6 stuff, engine isn't under the car yet) but if I am going to order a new bracket and I need the cables too, I want to order both at the same time. So, anyone know?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Re: Engine Swap Issues
Now I've got a question on the coil wiring. I had a gray connector in the pic below, but the wiring was bad and it broke off.
Shoebox's pic
I have a pink wire that didn't have a connector on it, but I assume it went to the black one that went on the connector the gray one is plugged into. My question is what is that gray connector that fits on the coil going to? And what is that other connector there? This is what I get out of it:
Coil Wiring
Is that it?
EDIT: I looked at the wring harness on Shoebox's site, and there is only the gray and black connectors going to the coil. What is going on?
Shoebox's pic
I have a pink wire that didn't have a connector on it, but I assume it went to the black one that went on the connector the gray one is plugged into. My question is what is that gray connector that fits on the coil going to? And what is that other connector there? This is what I get out of it:
Coil Wiring
Is that it?
EDIT: I looked at the wring harness on Shoebox's site, and there is only the gray and black connectors going to the coil. What is going on?
Last edited by EKO; Aug 21, 2005 at 12:36 PM.
Re: Engine Swap Issues
OK, got the coil wired up. I fired it up and wow.
LTs and open ORY sounds mean. It idles fast, so its got a vaccuum leak somewhere (throttle body I think). And apparently painted headers aren't painted with high temp paint.
O well, after a year of waiting, it finally runs. Thanks to everyone who helped me with it, especially shoebox, your site made it happen.
LTs and open ORY sounds mean. It idles fast, so its got a vaccuum leak somewhere (throttle body I think). And apparently painted headers aren't painted with high temp paint.
O well, after a year of waiting, it finally runs. Thanks to everyone who helped me with it, especially shoebox, your site made it happen.
Re: Engine Swap Issues
Today's Issue:
Well I got the idle taken care of, but when I put it in gear to move it and start to let off the clutch, the 15 amp PCM ignition fuse #5 (I/P) blows. Any Ideas why? It's only when I let off the clutch. It's happened twice. I'm thinking of putting a 20 in there and see what happens, but I don't want to fry the PCM.
Well I got the idle taken care of, but when I put it in gear to move it and start to let off the clutch, the 15 amp PCM ignition fuse #5 (I/P) blows. Any Ideas why? It's only when I let off the clutch. It's happened twice. I'm thinking of putting a 20 in there and see what happens, but I don't want to fry the PCM.
Last edited by EKO; Aug 25, 2005 at 12:09 AM.
Re: Engine Swap Issues
Well I've got it narrowed down. Only when the car is running and in reverse, and as the brake is released, will the fuse blow. It turns out it has something to do with the brake light/cruise control switch on the brake pedal. I used the same one that was on the brake with the A4. If I take the switch out of the housing and release the brake its fine. So heres the question. Is the switch wired differently on the M6 to the A4? If so, how do I change it to make it work?
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