engine rebuild $$questions
http://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-90005BI/10002/-1
how bout this for a rotating assembly? would this work on an lt1??
or is this kit no good??
thanks guys.
btw i cant seem to find any rebuild kits for lt1's on jegs or summit is there a part number i can use??
and also i need to find a gasket kit too. and i have been looking on jegs too but i cant find them i must be retarded lol.
how bout this for a rotating assembly? would this work on an lt1??
or is this kit no good??
thanks guys.
btw i cant seem to find any rebuild kits for lt1's on jegs or summit is there a part number i can use??
and also i need to find a gasket kit too. and i have been looking on jegs too but i cant find them i must be retarded lol.
Last edited by benji's_z28; Apr 29, 2008 at 07:23 PM.
well is there a rotating assembly for a 355 lt1 out there or am i just gonna have to buy it piece by piece??
or can i just use my stock rods and crank?? can these 'go bad' or would it be not smart of me to use the same crank and rods when using a bigger bore and later doing bigger heads??
or can i just use my stock rods and crank?? can these 'go bad' or would it be not smart of me to use the same crank and rods when using a bigger bore and later doing bigger heads??
I would reuse the stock crank before the $200 cast crap in the Jegs link.
You do not need "LT1" parts you need one piece rear main smallblock crank.
I would reuse the stock crank and get a $300 set of Scat rods and a $600 set of Mahle pistons if doing a budget motor.
You do not need "LT1" parts you need one piece rear main smallblock crank.
I would reuse the stock crank and get a $300 set of Scat rods and a $600 set of Mahle pistons if doing a budget motor.
Wouldnt the 383 kits here work if you had them balanced?
http://www.jegs.com/p/Eagle/749647/10002/-1/10759
http://www.jegs.com/p/Eagle/749647/10002/-1/10759
I did all the research into this that I could during the past few months. The cheapest 383 assembly you can get for an LT1 will come in at around 800 with hypereutectic pistons.
What I ended up doing was getting a set of Speed Pro forged pistons (comes in a kit with the rings), Eagle h-beam rods, and reused the stock crank. The stock crank is better than the $200 junk like 96capricemgr said. The parts for this setup cost less than $500 but there is also the balancing machine work involved.
There are a lot costs that add up fast when putting in a new rotating assembly.
if you dont have that many miles on it you could probably get away with a hone. No need to bore it to get rid of the out of round, which would save you some machine costs, and you could still use the stock pistons too.
With new rings, bearings, etc the stock shortblock will handle quite a bit. I havent read anything about a blower or turbo so you should be fine with running stock parts. Even if your turning 6500rpm or hitting a 150 shot, you ll still be okay. Especially with a fresh bottom end, hell there are guys with 100k miles, h+c, and a 150 shot on their cars.
Now as far as stepping up the cubes, if its something you want to do i would consider building the bottom end. Stick a cam in it and run stock heads untill you can afford something bigger. A few have done it this way and i think its a good way to go for the budget guy who wants to slowly step it up.
With new rings, bearings, etc the stock shortblock will handle quite a bit. I havent read anything about a blower or turbo so you should be fine with running stock parts. Even if your turning 6500rpm or hitting a 150 shot, you ll still be okay. Especially with a fresh bottom end, hell there are guys with 100k miles, h+c, and a 150 shot on their cars.
Now as far as stepping up the cubes, if its something you want to do i would consider building the bottom end. Stick a cam in it and run stock heads untill you can afford something bigger. A few have done it this way and i think its a good way to go for the budget guy who wants to slowly step it up.
yeah my plans are to do the heads later. here are my plans...
bore .030 over and all other block work ( the engine builder quoted me at 1500 to 1800 for a complete disassemble and reassemble with parts i give them is this a bad price???)
Mahle .030 piston kit includes rings
cc306 cam
1.6 rr's
different springs (not sure what kind any recomendations??)
stock crank
get a new opti, new oil pump,
stock heads and and intake.
hoping to make around 350 rwhp and be done with it for a while till i have funds for a built tranny and rearend.
hoping to do this under $4000
bore .030 over and all other block work ( the engine builder quoted me at 1500 to 1800 for a complete disassemble and reassemble with parts i give them is this a bad price???)
Mahle .030 piston kit includes rings
cc306 cam
1.6 rr's
different springs (not sure what kind any recomendations??)
stock crank
get a new opti, new oil pump,
stock heads and and intake.
hoping to make around 350 rwhp and be done with it for a while till i have funds for a built tranny and rearend.
hoping to do this under $4000
96caprice why do you say the Scat 9000 cast cranks are junk can you elaborate from your expirence please? And if they are junk as you say then what crank would you recommend for a budget 383 buildup?
EDIT: I think I found my answer at the link below, I'm just gonna get the GM 1053 forged crank with the Scat Pro-comp I beams and Mahle power pac piston kit and just do a budget 355 all forged.
http://www.superchevyperformance.com...p/14096036.htm
EDIT: I think I found my answer at the link below, I'm just gonna get the GM 1053 forged crank with the Scat Pro-comp I beams and Mahle power pac piston kit and just do a budget 355 all forged.
http://www.superchevyperformance.com...p/14096036.htm
Last edited by 87Aerocoupe; May 26, 2008 at 07:56 AM.
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