To all who say out the bottom is easier........try doing it that way in a gravel driveway w/ #9 rock ! (I did it this way once........just once) Not exactly the best thing to roll a jack around on, if you know what I mean. Like I said, it depends on what he has at his disposal, lol

 

I wish I could find a picture of an old man beating the crap out of a horse to post in this thread - and all the other "Which is the best way to pull the engine" threads.

 

I usually just pull the dash, cut open the firewall and happy hooker it out the T-top

-Dustin-

 

Now you're talking - my brother/assistant is a sawsall guy too! :-)

 

holy flying ratchets batman!

 

THASs DONK YO!!!

 

Yeah no **** - when they say to put the rear tires on top of tires on their side it's so you can put something against the tires to stop them from rolling.

 

Wow 12-21-09 is the last post in here. Just figured I'd use the search function, before I start, see what yall had to say about it. About a month ago my Z spun a rod bearing at about 145k. I just picked up a suitable replacement, so as much of a pita I know it's gonna be, I want my car back. It's getting too cold to ride the Buell all the time. I have a haynes manual which states. Note:The factory method for engine removal via the bottom is unsafe for the home mechanic without a lift. Blah blah blah, etc.etc. etc. I haven't decided yet, but I'm already leaning towards the top being that I'll be doing it in the grass with no help. Though the bottom looks like it could be pretty easy. I have tools, a hoist, jackstands and what not. Be great if someone had a measurement of exactly how high the lowest point under the car (core support ) needs to be, to get it out the bottom. The pic is worth 1000 words.

 

Wow 12-21-09 is the last post in here. Just figured I'd use the search function, before I start, see what yall had to say about it. About a month ago my Z spun a rod bearing at about 145k. I just picked up a suitable replacement, so as much of a pita I know it's gonna be, I want my car back. It's getting too cold to ride the Buell all the time. I have a haynes manual which states. Note:The factory method for engine removal via the bottom is unsafe for the home mechanic without a lift. Blah blah blah, etc.etc. etc. I haven't decided yet, but I'm already leaning towards the top being that I'll be doing it in the grass with no help. I have tools, a hoist, jackstands and what not. Be great if someone had a measurement of exactly how high the lowest point under the car (core support ) needs to be, to get it out the bottom.

 

IMHO, rolling the engine out the bottom with the tires on it would be easier than trying to wrangle an engine hoist in the dirt. Pop the hood and measure from the ground to the top of the intake. That is about the clearance needed to get it out.

 

Check out this link: http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

This is exactly what I did, only I left the front tires on. It is the easiest way by far. After I **tried** to disconnect the wire harness, and started taking the engine apart fromt the top, I realize it could all be done out the bottom and leave the damn wire harness and most accessories on the engine, including the alternator. The only thing you really have to take off is the a/c compressor, because it is charged with freon. You can leave the power steering pump on, just disconnect the hose to the reservoir. Leave the radiator in too( I took mine out), unhook all the water hoses, disconnect the drive shaft and torque arm, the shifter inside the car(M6) and the tranny cross member. Take out the K member bolts, traction bar bolts, and disconnect two brake lines you are home free. Putting it back in is about like taking it out, only it takes some fanaggling to line everything up. Pretty easy if you take your time. Then you can have full access to everything, trust me it is way easier to have the engine and tranny there so you can see what you got, how it all works and you'll know a lot more about your drivetrain.

 

I like the shoebox way. Rolling it out on the wheels seems the way to go. Plus I don't have any extra $ to build a cradle. I asked an old timer friend of mine, he says the bottom is the way to go. But swears I need some kind of cradle as show in the link above. He seems to think the wheels will collapse inward once on the ground, but to me the pic of the red one in the grass is doing fine, and I can't see any cradle of any kind there. I have the front wheels up about 25", from my measurements. I need at least 35" or more to the bottom of the car. I can get under it safely to unbolt some of the underneath stuff. I have the back on some 8 lug truck wheels, and I have some massive jack stands under the front of the body. Be great if I had air, but F-in geekers robbed my compressor I've had for 10 years. Then a month later they were back on my property to steal my belt sander. Little SOB bastards!

 

I dropped my engine 3 times, all through the bottom. using a cherry picker and a 1/2ton jack. doing it on the grass, I would throw down some pilewood sheets so you can roll a cart made out of a car dolleys and 2x4's and wheel the k-frame and motor around, out and in. believe me. having center of gravity in the middle of the K frame makes it A LOT easier to realign the K frame bolts. You need to use a cart, tried w/o one and the wheels and struts collapsed inwards making it near impossible to to realign. Pulling out you dont need a cart.

 

The tops of the shocks may try to lean inward, but all you need to do is wedge some wood between them and the motor or put on your shock brace if you have one. I used no cradle and had no problems.

 

As a first timer, I read and reread all the related threads and debated for a long time on which way to go on this. I even bought a Happy Hooker because I was leaning more toward out the top. But I eventually decided on going out the bottom simply because I didn't want to drop the transmission and I didn't want to try taking engine and trans out the top, in spite of some people having done it that way.

We used a motorcycle/ATV jack under the K-member,rested the trans on a furniture dolly, left the front tires on and rolled everything out from under the car. It was much easier than I thought it would be. It just takes time and patience. The jack under the K-member worked great as it gives you the ability to raise or lower the K-member. I probably took more stuff off the engine while it was still in the car than I really needed to, but I'll know better the next time.

This was by far the biggest project I have ever taken on, but would have no hesitation in doing it again.