LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

engine out top

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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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engine out top

Hello, just got fine pulling my engine out the top. A lot easier than I thought, although I was scared the chain our something would break. I had to put the lift on the side of the car as the nose is to long.

What I want to know is, is there anything I should check while its out. Like the motor mounts our anything else. Can the engine bay be cleaned out without damaging any electrical or anything?

Thanx


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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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Re: engine out top

It's never a bad idea to check/change the motor mounts while the motor is out. It'll definitely be the easiest time to get to them and upgrading them won't hurt.

I've been cleaning my engine bay with degreaser, a soft bristle brush, water, and shop rags. Takes some elbow grease, but it works and shouldn't hurt any electronics. Just tape over or avoid open connectors to be sure.
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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Know a good place for upgraded motor mounts?


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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 08:32 PM
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Re: engine out top

Anywhere that sells parts for a LT1 should have them. Check the site sponsors first. I used Energy Suspension, but Prothane sells a set with the transmission mount too. I've ordered from Shon Herron (that's his username on here) before and he did a great job. If nothing else, Summit has good prices and fast reasonable shipping. They've been my "go to" place for years.
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 10:09 AM
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One question I have for anyone is when to prime the engine with oil? While its out or will a drill and the tool fit once the engines in?


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 01:30 PM
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Do it when its out(even if room under the hood sealing intake is easier out of car a good tip for intake is use a couple of studs to aid in dropping it in place). Did you use the happy hooker?


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 03:02 PM
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Didn't use the hooker, just a chain. Transmission wasn't attached. I have to have the intake on to prime it?


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 04:50 PM
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intake off to prime it. some people pull plugs and cut fuel and prime it with the starter given everything had good assembly lube. You have the chance to do it while out of engine bay and I would. The happy hooker is nice and well worth the $50. I recently used it to change oil pump.


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 05:28 PM
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I did extra work, which I didn't mind. I pulled intake off and Trans off and pulled engine with just the heads, nothing else on front of engine. There was a lot if room our I would have bought the hooker.

So,I have the engine on a stand yet,I can prime it with the intake off? I bought the tool and will use an electric drill. what i'm looking for is oil to come out of the push rods, right? Sorry this is my first engine build so I don't really know what i'm doing.


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 06:05 PM
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yes intake off, and looking for oil at pushrod area. It takes a while unless your drill spins it quicker than mine. Be sure you have oil sending unit on or you will quickly see why lol. Even a quick bump and its shooting out of it lol. I didnt know what I was doing either and foolishly put intake on first thing and had to remove it. The other one I forgot and had to go back and do was didnt put or check for the bearing before I bolted my clutch up. I used antisieze on the intake bolts and later redid those with thread sealant. If valve lash isnt set thats easier out of motor also. Its good to thread all your plugs as well outside in case need to chase a hole(I used a little anti sieze here as well as header bolts(check them outside also). If your using stock exhaust manifold saw were a guy drilled the heat shield rivots off and wires them on for ease of plug and wire removal and install


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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lol,I can just imagine the oil flowing out the pressure sensor hole. What bearing would that be? Didn't do lash yet and that's one thing i'm nervous about. I may do things right but always second guess myself.


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 06:28 PM
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I have headers and I just got otvc kit from thunder racing.


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 10:15 PM
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Pilot bearing. The valve lash isnt that tough. Shoebox has three ways of doing it and ive done two of them. The main thing is paying attention if your on the exhaust valve or intake(exhaust is always in line with exhaust port exiting head. The method of one at a time is probably less apt to make a mistake but will take a little extra time. A grease pen can be helpful to mark the nut at zero lash so you can go a 1/2 turn. I noticed spinning the pushrod wasn't as accurate as the up down. Honestly the last time I did it I could feel zero lash with the nut. Take your time and im sure you will do fine. Are you using roller rockers or stock or??


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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 10:20 PM
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Stock rockers. All I did was pull the heads off the blown motor and am bolting them right on this one.


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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 08:48 AM
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Ok, got the heads on and I did the valve lash according to the lt1/lt4 rebuild book. My question is, even if I did it wrong will the engine still fire so I can adjust them with the valve covers off? I feel way more comfortable doing them that way.


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