I wasn't saying that a 0w-x oil was bad. I was only saying that it wasn't the only choice for everything. You said that there was no reason to use a straight weight oil, and 93turbo5oh said that there was. I was merely pointing out that there are reasons to use other oils than 0w40 M1 or 0w30 German castrol syntec........

I don't turn my head to information, but I do need a certain level of assurance that the info is trustable and valid (personal research, or some other compelling reason). I've used the 10w30 M1 up until now, without really having cared much about alternatives.. its cheap in the 5 quart walmart jug, my oil pressure is fine, I have no leaks, and since I bought this car, I've had very little time to devote to such things as finding an optimal oil. It's just not a priority right now. If it were, I'd be running my own tests and doing my own research on the chemistry (or finding a paper written by someone who actually employed good scientific methods). If I get access to some reliable data, I may change my mind in the future; but, if I do, it certainly won't be because some guy I don't know on the internet claims to have done a few "tests."

I don't know the guy who runs these tests, I don't know if he's secretly being paid by castrol, I don't know his driving style, or if he drives differently when testing the different oils, or if something about his car or the weather or 100 other uncontrolled variables had changed between the two tests.. I mean come on.. for one thing, the engine isn't getting any younger, so clearly the wear pattern will shift over time as the engine ages.. If I'm going to make a switch, thats one thing, but before I go telling everyone and their brother to "use this oil because of x," I'm going to have tested x myself. And done research on the compounds, and the byproducts of breakdown, etc. I suggest you do the same. Otherwise, going around claiming that 'oil x is the best oil for these things' is just spreading more misinformation. You know, a while back, some people were pretty sure that the world was flat, and that the sun was in orbit around the earth.....

It's just not as simple as german 0w30 castrol syntec is the best for everyone. Lots of people like to talk a lot based on what someone else told them, or what someone claims to have done. I think we should try to avoid swaying with the semi edjumacated fickle mob.

I like the quote in Brett's sig:

 

thank you. its a 0 weight at 60 degrees that has the lubrication properties (not viscosity) of a 30 weight at 180 degrees. my point is that the thinner oils get hot a lot easier. and that being the case, the 0 is going to get to 300 degrees a lot faster then a 10w30, which will get to 300 quicker then 20w50 which will get to 300 quicker then sae 30. just because it has the properties and lubrication chactaristics (again, not viscosity) at 180 doesnt mean it still has them at 200+. its all heat related. and you can bet your *** that a stock 5 qt non cooled wet sump system is going to be as tough on oil in a high rpm application as a 5 gallon capacity cooled dry sump system in an engine that has small main/rod bearings and roller cam bearings. the needs are not that different. oil is application specific, one size most certainly does not fit all.

i like the thin oils for a performance application, but only in real synthetic base oils like redline, royal purple...ect that dont sheer under high heat. im not saying syntech and m1 arent good. they work fine. i had a dodge dynasty w/ 450K on it that i ran 5w50 syntec in all its life. but in a high rpm race motor, id never use it.