engine not run in 3 years
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From: central wi
engine not run in 3 years
i got a used engine that has not run in a number of years,
id there anything that needs to be done to that to make it turn over easier, would pulling plugs and spraying the cylinders with some tyoe of lube help, and is it normal for engine that has sat for long time to be a little sticky.
id there anything that needs to be done to that to make it turn over easier, would pulling plugs and spraying the cylinders with some tyoe of lube help, and is it normal for engine that has sat for long time to be a little sticky.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,925
From: Detroit
Re: engine not run in 3 years
Originally posted by billygoat
i got a used engine that has not run in a number of years,
id there anything that needs to be done to that to make it turn over easier, would pulling plugs and spraying the cylinders with some tyoe of lube help, and is it normal for engine that has sat for long time to be a little sticky.
i got a used engine that has not run in a number of years,
id there anything that needs to be done to that to make it turn over easier, would pulling plugs and spraying the cylinders with some tyoe of lube help, and is it normal for engine that has sat for long time to be a little sticky.
... and check your PM's and email.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,211
I've seen lots of different ideas for doing this over the decades.
The one I like involves using a syringe to squirt a couple of ounces of tranny fluid into the cylinders and letting that work in for a day or two. You can get a needleless syringe at your local veteranarian, where they are used to give animals liquid oral medication. I have also used PB Blaster to do this.
I would definitely drain the oil and put in new. Any old cheap oil will do, since you're going to change it again, you just don't want oil that's contaminate with water and acids. Change the filter too.
At this point it's considered a good idea to spin the oil pump with a drill motor, but if that's on the impractical side for you, crank it with a coil disconnected and the plugs out until the oil pressure comes up.
That'll also squirt the tranny fluid you put in out of the spark plug holes, so you will probably want to stuff some rags in the area of the holes to catch the mess. Just dont' plug the holes. You want the tranny fluid back out.
Once the oil pressure is up, fire it up and let it run for a minute or two, then change the oil & filter again, this time putting in good oil, preferably a synthetic.
Run the engine again for 5 minutes and change the filter only, then change the filter one last time after you've run a hundred miles or so.
I've had success with this in the past, although pretty much any method that's remotely similar to what I've described will probably work, provided you don't have heavy rust built up in the cylinders.
If you do... Well... It's probably best to tear it down.
The one I like involves using a syringe to squirt a couple of ounces of tranny fluid into the cylinders and letting that work in for a day or two. You can get a needleless syringe at your local veteranarian, where they are used to give animals liquid oral medication. I have also used PB Blaster to do this.
I would definitely drain the oil and put in new. Any old cheap oil will do, since you're going to change it again, you just don't want oil that's contaminate with water and acids. Change the filter too.
At this point it's considered a good idea to spin the oil pump with a drill motor, but if that's on the impractical side for you, crank it with a coil disconnected and the plugs out until the oil pressure comes up.
That'll also squirt the tranny fluid you put in out of the spark plug holes, so you will probably want to stuff some rags in the area of the holes to catch the mess. Just dont' plug the holes. You want the tranny fluid back out.
Once the oil pressure is up, fire it up and let it run for a minute or two, then change the oil & filter again, this time putting in good oil, preferably a synthetic.
Run the engine again for 5 minutes and change the filter only, then change the filter one last time after you've run a hundred miles or so.
I've had success with this in the past, although pretty much any method that's remotely similar to what I've described will probably work, provided you don't have heavy rust built up in the cylinders.
If you do... Well... It's probably best to tear it down.
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