im rebuilding my lt1 and i wanted to know if this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-91015/ rebuild kit includes EVERYTHING i need to rebuild my bottom end. also is there any little things not mentioned that i need? and what is the piston head volume i see a bunch of different numbers thanks guys

 

My suggestion is to contact a site sponsor and have them spec out a kit for you. That kit will be using a cast aftermarket crank that's weaker than the stock piece. If all you want is a stock rebuild, there's no reason you should be spending money on a new crankshaft.

 

im looking for a lil bit more than stock but most of all a very good daily driver

 

Most machine shops will supply you with the parts needed to do your build at a good price if they're doing the machine work needed, and this way you will be sure to get all the correct components. The LT1 uses lightweight pistons and a lighter bobweight crankshaft - it's not interchangeable with older SBC components unless you re-balance. Get the parts locally and they can weigh the parts quickly to make sure you don't need to balance.

Secondly if you're looking for a basically stock motor or even a heads/cam package motor you don't need the forged pistons. The factory crank is stronger than that Scat 9000, and the rods would be fine too once they've been re-sized.

 

Not much to go by.... sounds like your requirements would be met by a stock rebuild, with a few "bolt ons".

 

Where are you located?

 

im located in staten island new york. honestly i want like 350 to 375 to the wheels and for the occasional track day i want to be able to run nitro daves plate kit w/ a 75 shot. reason for doing this is i blew a radiator hose on the highway and the car over heated turned it off instantly fixed the hose put a whole gallon of antifreeze in it but i didnt know that you needed to bleed the system so a few days later car has white smoke coming out of it, low coolant light is on, exhaust smells like antifreeze, and oil has antifreeze in it so im thinking head gasket

 

Problem is that nitrous is like crack, you'll just end up using more down the road despite what you say now

So now I would amend my earlier post, if you're building a motor no reason to not build it to take the nitrous. Use the factory crank, use some 6.0" Scat Pro-I beam 7/16" rods @ $250, and get some Mahle power pack pistons, Wiseco Pro-tru, SRP's are all good budget pistons that will suit the bill - have your shop gap the rings for nitrous use. The shop can supply these parts as a package, or order them and bring it all in to have the block machined and rotating assembly balanced. Those rods are the best deal going, but they will need to be checked on the big and small end sizing, I always need to open up the pin clearance a little and usually a couple of the big ends need to be kissed on the hone to put them in spec - much nicer to have the manufacturer error to the tight side so a quick dusting is all that's needed unlike Eagle, Cat, and others that need to be re-sized right out of the box.

Your heads need to be rebuilt too - if you're planning on nitrous it would be good to step up to stainless valves.

 

thank you machinest very good ingo im going to look into the parts you mentioned anyone else have any info please

 

Pistons are the weakest point in a stock LT1 when you start talking about a power adder. They just won't stand up to much detonation and unless you are very good/careful/conservative with your tune and the amount of nitrous, some detonation is inevitable. So, in my mind nitrous = a need for forged pistons. Only exception is if you have inhuman powers to resist the seduction of MORE POWER (i.e. more nitrous). The stock crank is pretty good, if it's in good shaped. Have a good shop inspect it. measure it up, Magnaflux it and grind/polish it as needed.

Couldn't agree more with M1's suggestion about buying the parts from the machine shop. There are a number of reasons for this, but suffice it to say it's almost always the best way to go.

Rich