If I did it right, I got nothing. Guess the next step would be to run a jumper and check?

The Black wire had resistance but the yellow wire didn't.

 

Going back to your original post.

When you measured the 5 volts at the ECT connector, did you put one lead of the meter on the yellow wire contact and the other lead on the black wire contact? Or did you use an engine ground instead of the black wire?

One other point. If during all this time, the ECT circuit was a problem you would have a SES light. So my questions are: Does your SES light work during prestart diagnostics? And the other is, when you put your jumper(paper clip) in the connector, did you start the engine?

Have you tried simply disconnecting the ECT with no jumper and starting the engine to see if the SES comes on?

Based on your posts I think you're chasing ghosts. Your whole entire problem could be explained by a bad radiator cap.

 

I changed the radiator cap earlier (Still could be bad I recon.....)

 

Unhooked the ECT and started the car. The SES light came on and the fans came on.

 

Ok so you know the circuitry is good. Now either test or replace the ECT. Personally I would test the ECT in boiling water. You could also place a resistor in the wiring to push the fans on.

 

Cool, Here we go. Think while i'm in town I'll stop at the GM dealer and get a thermostat, ECT and radiator.

 

Allright. I put in the new ECT and ran the car at idle. It got to 3/4 up on the temp gauge and no fan kicked on. I got in the car and reved it up then the fans kicked on. I turned the car off let it sit 15 minutes then started it back up let it run and the fans kicked on by themselves. They were kicking on at 3/4 and turning off at 1/2. Seems a bit high but I guess the only way to verify the temp is to purchase a scanner or laptop cable. I have to go to work so I won't be able to run the car up the road but fingers are crossed.

For those of you keeping score at home I just bought a new ECT at O'reilly and it looks like that was the problem.