Why is it easy to install? Is it hoooked up different?

 

I have researced for a couple of months while my old WP was dripping I went with the CSI because the reputation of CSI seems to better, and just about everybody who has had an electric WP fail before the advertised life (that I seen) had substandard wiring. it is VERY critical that you use some beefy wire at LEAST #8 THHN, I used a fuel pump relay because they are designed to take a beating amperage wise. I soldered EVERY connection and ran both +12 and GND to the posts on the passenger side and mounted the relay so that there was no more than 6 inches of wire to feed the relay. To date, there have been NO problems. Also for safety sake I ran a little wire off the pump feed side and hooked it up so that a relay trips the low coolant light if the power fails to the pump

 

Oh and did I mention, one more MPG

 

Could you wire it into the iat? wouldnt that be on evertime the car starts? Plus how are you guys getting the gear out of the cover w/o taking the cover off?

 

Anything that supplies +12 when ignition is in RUN will work, I ran mine to the BCM that one has +12 in run AND crank

also it's impossible to remove the gear without removing the cover, I just left mine in! as far as I know I don't think it will be a problem

 

I know this sounds stupid but do you dump the old one? Does it replace it , go over it what? Why did someone need to cut their fan shroud?

 

Ive installed 5 CSI units in Cameros and Jeeps (LT1 conversions), with no problems, I still say that CSI has one of the worst customer service programs around, before you install the pump search this board for the mounting instructions, since they (CSI) so not supply anything telling you what to do or how to notch the housing for pump mounting, the first one we installed was done on Mexico to a pre-runner with an LT1 in it, we were somewhat confused about the notching and the plug, so er called CSI and waited on hold for 10 minutes ($3.15 a minute on sat phone) and never got anyone to answer any questions, e mailed when we returned, still no responce, if the pumps were not $70 cheaper I wouldnt reccomend them to the local lawn mower shop.

Someone said they used #8 wire, WOW bigger is better......sometimes! not in this case. and any 30 amp relay (IE Bosch) will do just fine, the water pump relay is subjected to far less cycles than the fan, it comes on when you start the car and goes off when the key is off.

We are working on a load sence circuit for the electric water pumps that will advise you of a lack of power to the pump, this will be better than an idiot light connected to the output of the relay to determine if the pump is not running.

As far as running in the heat, we run up to 300 miles a day in the heat of Mexico and the electric pump with a thermostat controlled fan keeps the car running at 185-190. I think the only time you will see a lack of cooling is when the car is run WFO for a long time, I think the factory pump is approx 40 GPM at WOT, the CSI is 35 GPM.

 

Anyone else had to do mods for mounting???

 

I didnt have to notch my fan shroud. It touches but dont need to notch it on mine.

 

whaaaat??????? read that my man..lolol

 

My CSI comes on with the ignition and is wired up with a relay. I even have diodes soldered in.
I also have another switch in the car so it can run while the ignition is off, I do this at the track since my fans are on switches as well. Let the car cool between runs with the wp and both fans on until the 160 stat closes.
Also if for some reason the relay ever failed, the warning light would go off(it is lit when the pump is getting power) and I could hit the switch to protect the motor.

 

I didn't notch mine either, it touches it. In fact I think the pump actually melted a perfect lil notch into the fan shroud for itself

Nice pump, no complaints. Changing waterpumps now will be a 10-15 minute affair.

I don't think you need the thicker wire as mentioned above.

Also when installing, when you are dremeling the notches out for the waterpump to sit in the stock housing, if you also dremel completely around the inner lip, you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it, it'll save you TONS of time.

 

i have a CSI and mine runs right at the lowest mark on the gauge, when it was 95+ out with the a/c on it was about 2 needle widths above the lowest mark (160 i think it is).

i didnt notch the fan, i have a good 1/4-1/2" of clearence

 

For the Meziere...

http://www.projecttransam.com/projects9.asp

 

I have hocked up the orange wire to the relay, today, in addition to the manual switch to operate the pump.

Now, if I start the car and forget the switch at off-position, no problem, the relay will be activated by the fans power wire, at key-on position, and it will run automatically as the car starts.

If the car is off, I can switch the water pump to cool the engine even with keys removed. If I forget it at on-position, it will only drain the battery but that's better than forgetting it off and starting the engine. That will drain my pocket if engine damage happens.