Just recieved my new AutoMeter electric Fuel Pressure Guage. Does anyone know what is the best way, place to mount the sender? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

TIA David

 

anyone

 

LS1 or LT1(your sig)? Anyways, it doesn't really matter. You'll need a 4AN to 1/8" NPT adapter to get the fuel from your car to the sending unit. The most commonly and best used placed in your Schrader valve in your fuel rail. On the LT1, it's on the backside of the intake, near the top, on the driver's side. On the LS1, it's towards the front of the engine on the driver's side. It's where the fuel rail "dead ends". Remember, the Scrader valve is always on the fuel rail somewhere.
Unscrew the plastic cap on the port, and use a valve core remover tool to removed the valve core in the Schrader valve. Screw the 4AN end(female) of the sending line on to the valve port. You do not need the seal the threads since it's an AN fitting and it seals itself. Then, screw the 1/8" NPT female end on to the sending unit nipple. You do wanna use pipe sealant or teflon tape since this a regular screw on fitting.
Make sure all lines are free from rubbing and obstructions(maybe use zip ties to keep things secure and outta the way), then run the wires/plug into your fuel pressure gauge and you're set.

If you have anyore questions, lemme know

 

Bone,
Thanks for the info.

 

Np

 

the fuel pressure gauge will require a little more hardware to install it safely. (You do not want the sender directly connected, your engine will move under torque loads which will lead to breaking something.)

SummitRacing:
NOS-15230-2 -4AN 2-foot 1/8" NPT Red
NOS-17535 90* Swivel

Autozone:
stem core puller

Harware store:
brass coupling to connect end of line to sender

ANOTHER SETUP

For the fuel pressure gauge, I used the NOS -4AN swivel 90 off the Schrader, through a short -4AN hose

HINTS

If you have a TPI the fitting size should be -4AN. This is the size fitting on the end of the braided line. If you having trouble decoring the schrader valve, a replacement can purchased (exc. LT-1). Replacement style schrader valves that are color coded and have a larger diameter opening can be purchased from popular Nitrous companies such as NOS and Compucar. I have found that 90 degree fittings come in very handy during the installation, especially on the LT-1. Fittings can be purchased from companies such as Aeroquip or Earls. Check with their tech. guys regarding which will work for your application.

 

Frankjr8,
I have a 96 LT1 I assune you do also being a 96 as well. Is this the exact setup you used? I just don't want to buy the wrong parts.

TIA David

 

I have found the best way to mount the sender, without placing it directly on the Schrader valve, is to get an NOS part # 17535 -4AN 90-degree swivel fitting. Put that on the Schrader - VERY carefully. The Schrader connection is only "swedged" onto the fuel line, and will break off with too much torque..... very large $$$$ to replace.

Then run a -4AN hose to a location away from the engine and get an adapter to go from -4AN female on the hose to 1/8" NPT male on the sender. Or, get a 24" -4AN hose from NOS that already has a 1/8" NPT male end on it, and just use a simple brass 1/8" NPT coupling to connect the gauge.

The NOS 17535 fitting is on the Schrader in this pic:

BACK OF INTAKE

 

I just put it in last week!
Summit took an 1 week to get nos line.(BACK ORDER) I also used liquid pipe sealant instead of tape for contamination reasons.
The brass is needed cause the nos line plumbs into the swivel and you are left with 2 males one on the the sending unit and one on the hose, that were the coupling comes in play,
I ordered the auto meter, my boost gauge has a silver bezel the new pressure gauge has a black bezel kinda sucks being on the pillar but still looks sweet. One other bitch, 1 inch hole in firewall. Used a hole saw, It needs to be this big to get the harness threw that plugs into the sending unit. Then I zipped tied unit to a bracket, I had made for it. Other than that an easy install. 2 hrs. max if already have wires ran. In a cramped garage!


the fuel pressure gauge will require a little more hardware to install it safely. (You do not want the sender directly connected, your engine will move under torque loads which will lead to breaking something.)

SummitRacing:
NOS-15230-2 -4AN 2-foot 1/8" NPT Red
NOS-17535 90* Swivel

Autozone:
stem core puller

Harware store:
brass coupling to connect end of line to sender

 

I mounted mine like this.

 

Just use the big rubber grommet behind the PCM... no need to cut a hole at all. The harness for the 3-piece gauge fits through it fine.

As far as mounting it... you can also have a 1/8" NPT bung welded to the fuel rail......

Fuel Pressure Sensor

 

My hole for the pcm, I couldn't find .250 of an inch. 96 LT1, on my car it was all sealed and tight.
FYI
Explore all options,

 

As far as wiring I had always planned on using the hole behind the PCM. I have used it before so I hope there is enough room for these.

 

haha.. Frank, thanks for copy/paste'ing my info - its all injuneers info anyway lol.

 

Maybe they changed the opening on the later years??? On my 94 I have the fuel pressure harness wires, a -3AN braided line for the nitrous pressure gauge, the wiring for a couple other gauges, plus the programming link wire/connector for the MoTeC computer. And there's still room left.

The only thing that isn't running through the grommet is the braided hose for an oil pressure gauge, and that runs through the hole where the clutch master cylinder used to be mounted.