I was noticing the fans on our lt1s are a bit small and could probably use an upgrade. Anyone know of a better fan that will provide more air but still fit?

 

I'm running stock fans/stock fan controls on an 800 (flywheel) HP nitrous build. They work fine. Radiator has been upgraded though, and no condenser in front of the radiator. Since car was originally an M6, and the Griffin radiator was purchased with no trans cooler, auto trans cooler is external with its own fan. Buddy of mine was making 1,125 HP (25+ # of boost) at the flywheel with stock fans in his 30th SS convertible. He did replace the fans when he pushed the setup to 1,350 HP (non LT1 block).

On the other hand, the shop would not covert to an electric water pump, because the coolant flow was simply not enough to handle the added heat load. Stock water pump does need some internal work to prevent cavitation at RPM above 6,000.

 

Do you have the part number for the griffin? Im going to be doing more upgrades this year, ill have pics and stuff later....just got her running good finally.

 

Id love more info on the pump changes and the radiator, Fred. Any changes to get it mounted or the fans mounted?

 

21 years ago, but I'll se if I have a receipt in my file. It is specifically for a manual trans LT1, with the steam return line connection and the oil cooler connections. It fit correctly into the supports. As noted, I do not have A/C so there is no condenser mounted in front of it. The plastic top cover had to be mounted directly to the top of the radiator, but as I recall that was required to fit correctly under the WS6 style Ram Air airbox.

 

It fit into stock bulkhead frame and the fans mounted same as stock. No clearance problems. Note comment above about stock plastic cover. Based on 21 years ago, as remembered by a semi-senile senior citizen....

 

LOL Fred, if you are semi-senial, then old people have been making up how bad it is for ages...

what about the pump mods you mentioned to prevent cavitation over 6K? I didn’t even know this was a thing...

I would guess I don’t need to do anything since I went EWP, but if there was something I could do to make it better...

 

I don’t know the details of the water pump mods. The shop had built George Baxter’s record holding 30th SS LT1 and learned a lot about keeping it cool. They were adamant about not using an electric pump. When my build was going on I was working/living in northern Italy, communicating by email, and only getting back to the US every 6 weeks or so. Disappointing, because I was supposed to be able to work side-by-side with them (at least part-time) during the build.

As I recall, there may be something about the pump flow in the GM SAE paper on the LT1 engine. I'll look at the paper if I get a chance. Someone told me to look at the paper regarding cavitation at high RPM when I recommended against using a 50 GPM electric water pump vs. what I recall as closer to 100 GPM with the mechanical pump. But at the time I just asked the shop and they told me they “took care of it”. Fortunately, the cooling performance of the engine was evaluated in the numerous engine and chassis dyno pulls.

I retired 5 years ago, at the age of xx. I still assist my former employer on a consulting basis. Right now I'm setting up four training sessions for newly hired field engineers, new crew foremen, etc. I still take (and pass by exam) the required 24 hours of PDH (Professional Development Hours = continuing education units) required every 2 years to maintain my Professional Engineer license. I really think that keeping your mind active and challenged goes a long way toward maintaining mental competence in old age. If there is a problem, it's remembering why I opened the refrigerator door....

 

Thanks Fred, great info and I am dying I hope that puzzle solving in video games will keep me sharp(ish).

So far the EWP on a stock radiator is holding up pretty well, 185 after about 30 minutes of driving has been my high, but who knows what I will see once I am reving over 6k.

 

Skip the Griffin and get a Dewitts radiator.

https://www.dewitts.com/collections/...adiator-manual

 

Are you running this one?

 

At nearly 700 dollars thats a big chunk of money, was hoping for something with better cooling for around 300 or so.

 

I will be running the LS1 version, but right now it's sitting on my workbench awaiting installation.

 

Why did you pick this over anything else? Did you LS swap?

LT5, for a cooling upgrade, are you seeing higher temps? If not, rock the stocker until you have a reason the change. My 383 before is running 180 average with a peak of 185 in traffic with the stocker and factory fans. The only changes to my cooling system are the EWP, 160 thermostat and oil cooler delete.

 

Griffin or BeCool are going to be in the same price range, maybe $100 less.

Whatever you buy, if you want to keep the coolant level sensor and the engine oil cooler (if your engine has one), you need to make sure the radiator has connections for them. Also, make sure it has the connection for the coolant/steam flow from the back of the heads. These are the things that run up the cost of a radiator made specifically for the 93-97 LT1.