if i wanna delete my egr, what would that consist of? i know i need to get my pcm tuned for the delete, but what else.

 

You will need the block off plates for the exhaust manifold and the back of the intake. You can usually find them on ebay for cheap.

 

Remove the EGR tube that goes from the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold, and block off those holes with block-off plates. Remove the EGR valve and solenoid, and block those off as well.

 

I just bought a block off from ebay.... about how long does it take to delete the EGR? Seems like its buried back there.

 

i heard it was bad to delete the egr from some reliable sources. any input on exactly how the system works and its importance will be appreciated!!

 

hey fast, if your doing it with the engine in the car its kind if difficult to get to the egr so you actually have to "feel" out everything and use your hands as your eyes. on the egr itself there are only 2 bolts holding it on, one on each side. The egr valve also has 2 bolts then its connecting point (whether its on the exhaust manifold or aftermarket headers) has 2 more bolts. i have pics if you want one

 

It took me 30-45 minutes to remove my EGR and install the plates, taking my time to seal everything up properly. The hard spot if you still have stock exhaust manifolds is where the tube connects to the passenger exhaust manifold. It is hard to get to, and the heat has usually corroded the bolt on pretty good.

 

The role of the EGR is to lower combustion temperatures to reduce the generation of NOx. It does this by bleeding exhaust gases into the combustion chamber, reducing the amount of 'mixture' that can be burned. The EGR is only functional at part throttle cruise conditions. It doesn't operate at full throttle or idle....

Removing the EGR will not increase horsepower and will increase your emissions output.

By the way, I still run the EGR system...it doesn't weigh much and removing it doesn't help anything..

I hope this helps.

 

thanks bw. the only reason i wanted to delete it was because the headers i am getting (pacesetter longtubes from jegs) have 2 versions. with, or without a egr valve location hole. the one with the hole is near $100 more and i didnt wanna waste an extra $100

 

I understand....I bought emission equipped headers when I did my car so all this stuff would hook up.

 

while your here bw, what rocker arms and pushrods should i get. i keep looking everywhere but on the list i never see specifically LT1. all i see is small block 296-350 or LS1+. should i just get the ones that say small block chevy 296-350

 

Roller Rockers are a very heavily discussed issue on here. I run the Crane Gold self aligning 1.6 ratio rockers and have no issues. For more agressive set-ups, it would appear that most on here would recommend non self aligning rockers and the use of guide plates. You really have quite a few choices around roller rockers...just be sure to get those for Chevy small block engines. Your engine has 3/8" rocker studs stock and they need to know that when you order your rockers.

On the pushrods I'd simply recommend getting the rockers and a measuring tool and simply measuring the length needed before ordering. It's easier that way...no returning the wrong ones, etc.

 

thanks bro

 

Just to clarify... the EGR is not held on by bolts. There are two studs in the intake manifold, and two nuts that need to be removed. Ditto with the top connection for the corrugated riser tube. The tube connects to the exhaust manifold with a single bolt.

Looking at Shoebox's photo will help guide you as to where everything is:

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

 

That's the pic I'm looking for. I'm deleting mine because I'm having a boost leak somewhere, and I've already tuned out the EGR in Tunercat.