Just out of curiosty, will a SBC1 intake manifold bolt up to LT1? Is this conversion possible, and also what does it take to do this? Assuming that they both use the same bolt pattern (I have no clue if they do), would all you have to do be bolt up the SBC1 intake manifold, throw the carb on and run the fuel line to the carb, and delete the fuel injector codes from the ECU? What would you do about lowering the fuel pressure (I would 43.5 PSI would by WAY too high for a carb setup)?

 

The bolt pattern is different but can be modified to work by drilling new holes in the intake manifold. A simple fix for the fuel pump could be the use of a low pressure pump from a TBI motor and using a proper regulator. I don't see a reason for running the stock PCM, a conventional distributer can be used. Part of the cowl area would have to be cut to clear the carb.

 

im running a carbed LT4 motor and i wouldnt go back...GMPP makes a carbed LTx intake...one for LT1 and another for LT4's..youd need a plug for the front cover when you remove the opti..go to www.sdpc2000.com

heres the part number for the cover 12367600
heres the part number for the intake 24502574

heres the intake pic this is the one im running

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/738/...e-SB-Chevy.htm


check out the links in my sig to see how it runs

 

Do your research which you obviouslym haven't since you asked the question. For the mostpart ignorance is the main cause of people looking at this swap followed by refusal to learn how EASY the computer is to deal with and how well it resonds to modifications. There are9 second cars on the factory computer maybe even one NA if it can do that you wont exceed it's capability which leaves refusal to learn as pretty much the only "reason" left to try this.

 

I won't ask why because I don't realy care and think it is a bad idea and will leave it at that. To do the conversion get the GMPP intake made for the LT1 and get a FPR for 6-8 PSI. The fuel pump does not decide fuel presure the regulator takes car of that so get a regulator that will set the PSI to a presure for the carb and you are done.

 

I dont understand why people want to go carberated! The only reason is the bang for your buck. There is a saying that for every one dollar one spends on carberation, one would have to spend $5 on fuel injection.

There is nothing wrong with EFI, of course DFI is better, but there is always something better and of course, faster.

With FI in general, tuning cylinders individually is made possible and getting out that extra few horses just tweaking the PCM is made possible as well.
You can see Im not a fan of carberation. The LS2 is a perfect example, 367 ci making 400hp. Thats efficiency if I ever saw it! Or even the 2002 and newer LS1's from the factory making 350hp to the fly.

Everyone has their opinion and a right to it.

I think that Carbs and FI have their purposes. If one is running desert hills out in boonies with a raised 4WD and something happens miles away from anything, Carbs are good for that. No PCM, just hands ons fixing and no sensors. At a drag strip, where things are avail, and every hp counts and monitoring drivetrains performances, FI is the way to go.
Food for thought.
An 4.6L supercharged cobra making 390hp with potential-I know, I know, its Ford, just the principal of it ( and we know we cant deny it-one of the most feared cars out there).
Daniel

 

how does this GMPP LT1 intake manifold flow in comparison to a well ported stock LT1 intake manifold (what I have now)??

Also, so I SBC1 intake manifold would also work if I drill the new holes? The reason I ask is because I can get a edelbrock intake for free from my buddies chevelle (from when he had a small block), and if this flows better, sounds like a good way to go..

About the distributor, will a regular rear mounted distributor just drop in back there, is there a hole in the rear of the block that goes to the cam right there stock? Will a regular distributor clear that lip right there on a fbody?

 

ttt

 

The oilpump drive on the LT1 is VERY much like the bottom couple inches on a distributor you take that out and drop the distributor in, thing is an f-body leaves you no room to drop it in so be prepared to cut the cowl. I know some of the TBI b-bodies had a larger distributor hole makybe with a distributor made for that and the hole opened up in whater manifold you use you can minumize cutting.

Can you please tell us what you think you are going to gain? When I go to the track the carb guys always marvel at just how fast and drivable my whale of an injected car is. The feedback the pcm can give you makes it EASIER to work with if you are just willing to learn.

 

The GMPP carb intake is essentially a Performer RPM. Its a pretty good intake. On a stock engine & good carb tuning you will pick up a little torque & not loose any HP. I've done a bunch of these & have carb'd LT1's on a few of my own cars. It works well.

Even though I like carbs, at heart I was always a F.I. type guy. From the early 90's up until recently every time I bouight a car with a carb on it the first thing I did was put a TPI on it until LT1's came out & then I was doing LT1 swaps. Lately I've been playing with the carbs & having fun with it. It's back asswards but I learned injection first & then carbs. I used to think carbs were junk & had no place on anything but a nostalgia race car or antiques but in fact a properly tuned carb can be a great performer.


All that said... I'm wondering why you want to get rid if the injection? Not in a critical way but since I've done this a few times maybe I can help you pick some stuff that works well. Too many people without mentioning names dont understand carbs so youre going to hear some negative responses but dont let that stop you from making your car the way you want it.

 

Someone asking a valid question should not be answered with calling people ignorant. That is bs and rude.

Last time I checked you have to do some homework on a properly setup carbed setup and you will get some stout numbers when it is worked out.

 

To tell everyone that is wondering, I was just asking to see if this was even possible and what was involved, cuz as of right now I am quite fed up with how much cash i've dumped into my car and I can't even get it to run properly. I mean, i've got the intake ported and throttle bores matched to the throttle body, SVO injectors, BBK 58mm throttle body, and a moroso cold air. I bought everything used besides the intake manifold, and cold air and the grand total was $1000 just for that stuff plus the money i've spent for tuning (yes, I even paid to have the tuning done, I don't know how to do this), which for some reason didn't work, and the PCM just wants to dump the whole gas tank into the engine all at once, which floods the engine within 5 seconds and fouls out ALL the plugs, it is quite frustrating. I was just wondering about this setup, cuz the other day my friend was over (kid with the chevelle) and we were messing with the car double checking the plug wires, checked timing, etc, and he was telling me I could just have his eddelbrock intake from the SBC he had in his car, So I was just wondering what it would take to make that work, cuz as of right now I have no way of adjusting how much fuel this PCM dumps into the engine at once and don't have any more cash for expensive computer tuning stuff. Right now if I were too sell everything I got (injectors, TB, CAI, ported manifold) and just buy a holley carb and throw on that free intake, it sounds like that would still leave me with money to get rid of the opti and move to a MSD pro billet, and have cash left over plus I would for sure have a well running car.. Also there is the coolness factor, anytime you roll up to a carshow, or anywhere with something this new with a blingin carb. sitting on top of it and all the extra crap gone, it gets peoples attention (I had a 92 before this car, with a carb'd crate engine). Not sure that this is something I will for sure be doing, but its good to know that its a option if I can't get it working on with the PCM, and being able to get rid of this opti crap would be a huge benifit in this swap.

 

I don't know what others have told you but you just need to address the basics.

Fuel pressure regulator...what is your fuel psi @ idle?
Vaccum leaks?
Faulty injectors? Are they stuck?
Getting good spark?

 

Anything researched correctly with time and money well spent will produce a nice result.
Carbs are good for certain applications. The one guy on here is correct in that you must do to your car what you want to do.
Carbs can make more power but trade off stuff as well. For example, a computer (PCM) can retard timing if need be to save the motor-technology on your side. With a carb, that wont necessarily happen. With FI you can log the entire run at the track or the dyno can plug into the port and read the PCM.
My friend just finished his AFR headed 383. He put an inline fuel pump, 42lb inj, and an aeromotive afpr. Within 6 pulls, the fuel system was completely tuned and he gained like 25hp from the fuel alone. The point being, is that with fuel, for example, one should go a lil overboard, to have room to play with. There is no reason in my opinion your fuel should not be able to be tuned. You may have gone overkill on the system. 24lb inj you would be surprised what they can handle. I have heard from the experienced, that if one has too big of an injector, at idle the car will choke and smoke but once moving will be ok. Every car is different.
Basic bolt on cars should not need more fuel inj.
If you having problems, maybe your fuel pump is failing or something.
Anything is a possibility, but diagnosing is a lil easier when you have a PCM to test parameters. Correct tuning is crucial but will save you.
Oh, and I know, fuel injection is always more expensive. I have heard some people say that have built massive motors putting 700+hp, they went carbed only because of the money factor, but would definitley prefer fuel injected.
If you are going to do the Carb thing, IMO research it thoroughly, and write down the pros and cons. And dont forget future upgrades/changes.
Hope that helps. GOOD LUCK

 

In response to the timing retard thing, yes that is a plus to fuel injection on most cars... most cars, not a 93 LT1, since the LT4 knock module "mod" does not work in it since the knock module on the 93 is not removable and a peice of crap just like the removable LT1 knock module the timing retard had to be disabled when Ion programmed the chip. I have no access to datalogging or chip programming equiptment and it is quite expensive and at this point i'm all tapped out of cash. WIth fuel injectors I did go overkill with 42 lb/hr SVO injectors, which I thought might have been the problem, but after putting the stock 22 lb/hr (remember its a 93) the car continues to do the same crap, where it just dumps fuel into the motor like no other and fouls out plugs. For the fuel pump it is a brand new walbro 255 and judging by how much fuel it is helping dump into the engine, it doesn't seem to be having any problems with failing.. At this point I can honestly say i'm stumped on what is wrong with the car, i'm just pissed cuz I got over 8 grand into this car and it doesnt even run, well it will run with clean plugs, but then once you shut the car off and leave it for a few hours, the plugs move from wet (yes, when you remove the plugs right after running the car the plugs come out dripping wet with fuel) to having quite a bit of carbon deposits and therefore the plugs will no longer fire...