Effects of plug gap....
Effects of plug gap....
Can too much or too little of a plug gap effect smoothness, etc of an engine, or maybe even a miss? Im running a .050 gap right now, could that possibly be too much for my mods? I know people with nitrous go with a smaller gap b/c the nitrous could possibly blow out the spark...
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
I'll let NGK say something about gap:
From another source:
Depending on your mods, you might experiment a little.
Always check that the spark plug gap is compatible with the engine manufacturers specification. A gap that is too small means that the spark duration will be very quick and the spark will be thin and weak. The consequences of this may be bad starting and high exhaust emission levels. This will result in an increase in fuel consumption. If the gap is set too large, the ignition system will not be able to cope with the demands and a misfire situation will occur. Some wide gap spark plugs have a longer ground electrode to accommodate a wide gap setting. These must be used where specified, as opening up a standard plug to a wider gap setting may result in the electrodes not running parallel to each other. This could result in abnormal and premature electrode wear.
Insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation, even engine damage. Too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, noticeable loss of power, plug fouling, and poor economy.
When you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous, or supercharger kit), you must lower the gap (reduce gap about .004" for every 50 hp you add on an V-8 engine). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology,) you can open the gap back up about .002"-.005".
As an example, let's use a hypothetical `96 350 Chevrolet LT1 engine build-up. The standard gap is .050" for an un-modified LT1. We'll add 150hp Nitrous, so we must lower the gap about .012" to .038". We then decide to add that killer MSD 6A/Crane Hi-6 box and, using our guidelines as outlined above, we can now open the gap up .002"-.005" to about .040"- .043". By following this basic guideline should get you very close.
Further experimentation may be necessary, but by always starting with a larger gap than it thought necessary to reduce the risk of detonation, you should be safe.
When you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous, or supercharger kit), you must lower the gap (reduce gap about .004" for every 50 hp you add on an V-8 engine). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology,) you can open the gap back up about .002"-.005".
As an example, let's use a hypothetical `96 350 Chevrolet LT1 engine build-up. The standard gap is .050" for an un-modified LT1. We'll add 150hp Nitrous, so we must lower the gap about .012" to .038". We then decide to add that killer MSD 6A/Crane Hi-6 box and, using our guidelines as outlined above, we can now open the gap up .002"-.005" to about .040"- .043". By following this basic guideline should get you very close.
Further experimentation may be necessary, but by always starting with a larger gap than it thought necessary to reduce the risk of detonation, you should be safe.
I think this is deserving of a TTT. I'm going to give a smaller gap a shot and see if that helps my stumble out along with the new wires. I figure I added 100+ hp at the flywheel with the head/cam setup.
This is good info in this thread.
This is good info in this thread.
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Jan 23, 2015 01:13 PM



Just wondering shoebox..what possible bad could come from running say an .040 gap?
