LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 05:00 PM
  #1  
b-stevens's Avatar
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From: Elk Grove Vlg, IL
easy question

What do I have to do in order to swap my ORP out to install the Cat?

Mac headers, Mac ORP, GMMG exhaust...

There seems to be some kind of mount attached to a bracket on one of the rear flange of the ORP. Should I dremel the bumps stopping the flange from sliding down the orp off and just slide the flange down the pipe?

Do I have to remove the s-pipe?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 08:22 PM
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I guess its not so easy after all... I would assume most of you know what I'm talking about, can anybody help me out a bit?
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 08:42 PM
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So is your cat double flanged? I know the ORP is right? So the cat would have to either have a flanged starter pipe or be double flanged. Are you saying that excess metal is preventing the install? I was under the impression that you just unbolt the ORP pipe and bolt in the Cat or cat assembly, as long as it fills the space the ORP used to occupy. Stereomandan, any insight? Good luck bman.

BTW how are you liking the MACs after a few months? what are your pros cons of them? and whats your future plans for the car?

-Dustin-
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 08:52 PM
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Originally posted by Bersaglieri
So is your cat double flanged? I know the ORP is right? So the cat would have to either have a flanged starter pipe or be double flanged. Are you saying that excess metal is preventing the install? I was under the impression that you just unbolt the ORP pipe and bolt in the Cat or cat assembly, as long as it fills the space the ORP used to occupy. Stereomandan, any insight? Good luck bman.

BTW how are you liking the MACs after a few months? what are your pros cons of them? and whats your future plans for the car?

-Dustin-
Both the cat and orp are from mac and both are double flanged. I was under the impression that it would be a simple unbolting of the orp and a bolting in of the cat as well, but theres also a bracket attached to the rearmost flange that seems to use a 19/32" socket, which I cant find anywhere besides snap-on and we dont have any snap-on dealers in the area that im aware of.

The bracket goes inside of a rubber mount basically like a square rubber mount with an opening inside which the bracket slides into. And thus I cant just unbolt the orp and remove it, I would have to either unbolt that bracket or slide the flange down the body of the ORP.

It was frustrating when I saw all that.

I personally still like the macs, but I despise the stage 8 locking header bolts because I had to loosen them slightly in order to get the clips on. Big mistake. I have some ARP 12 pt header bolts that I will be throwing on there as soon as possible. I had speed inc originally install them, and jet hot and/or mac supplied the wrong gaskets originally, and the air tubes (i think that is what these are) on the top of the headers had to be welded due to a leak. Other than that, Im pleased with the product.

As for future plans, work has been coming pretty slow lately so I dont have much money to throw into my car. I have so many plans that I dont know what to do first though. Eventually I want my car to have a vig 2800 stall, DRs, and possibly a 224/230 xe cam on a 114 lsa, eventually get some LE or AI heads, etc... Trust me the list is much, much longer

Sorry for the long post
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 09:52 PM
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Well at least someone is heading in the same direction as me, I am planning on the 224/230 or 233/239 kit, 2800 stall, Transgo shiftkit, tranny cooler, LPE/SLP CAI and either MACs or JetHots if my tax return check ever arrives. I was liking the MACs alot b/c of the supposed ease of cat swappage, but now I am rethinking it...(headers are so hard for me to decide on i.e. LT's worth the 250 more?)...and of course some appearance mods, like Ultra Z hood/tinting/and a black Berger rear panel/wheels, but those are luxury mods, as in wont happen unless I find a burried treasure in my yard or find a huge wad of crack money in Youngstown. oh and of course a heavy M6, 12bolt, heads with forged internals plus a blower with a 150 shot....I can dream cant I?

Pics might help with some assistance and might the size be metric?

-Dustin-

Last edited by Bersaglieri; Mar 11, 2004 at 09:55 PM.
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 10:03 PM
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I really should have taken pics while I was under there. If I dont figure it out tomorrow night I'll definitely take some pictures and post them. Also if I figure it out before anybody else posts a solution, I'll be sure to post up what I had to do.

I'm thinking just grind out the bumps that prevent the flange from sliding down the body of the ORP and then worry about getting the bracket off and back on once I have it off the car. You could move the bracket somewhat freely inside of the mount once the flange was unbolted though

And do you have any idea of what roughly 19/32" (smaller than 5/8 and larger than 9/16) would correspond to in mm?
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 10:15 PM
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Originally posted by b-stevens
I really should have taken pics while I was under there. If I dont figure it out tomorrow night I'll definitely take some pictures and post them. Also if I figure it out before anybody else posts a solution, I'll be sure to post up what I had to do.

I'm thinking just grind out the bumps that prevent the flange from sliding down the body of the ORP and then worry about getting the bracket off and back on once I have it off the car. You could move the bracket somewhat freely inside of the mount once the flange was unbolted though

And do you have any idea of what roughly 19/32" (smaller than 5/8 and larger than 9/16) would correspond to in mm?
19/32 is essentially a 15mm. That's what I have always used for the cat pipe bolts. You can get a 19/32 in a Craftsman socket.
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 10:35 PM
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Originally posted by shoebox
19/32 is essentially a 15mm. That's what I have always used for the cat pipe bolts. You can get a 19/32 in a Craftsman socket.
Thanks shoebox I'll try that out, but the bolts that fasten the flanges together are slightly different in size than the two bolts holding the bracket to the flange.

And do you have the slightest idea of what I might be referring to? I would like to be able to curse at it by name
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 10:37 PM
  #9  
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15mm is the right size and would do the job, but the damn bolts are either too tight or too rusted for me to remove.

Ive sprayed PB Blaster all over the bolts to no avail, beat them with the BFH to try to loosen them, and now that i've sprayed pb blaster on them I cant exactly torch them out...

Any ideas?
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