I finally got ALL my ignition issues solved with this car, most of which was due to a ****ted out coil wire. Oh well

Anyways, here is my sig of my mods. But basically its a nu-tek 383, with their ported lt1 castings, lt4 hotcam, full exhaust, all the bolt on mods, 2,500 pro torque converter through an a4, 3" steel denny's n2o ready driveshaft, Moser 12 bolt rear on M/T ET radials (35 psi).

http://www.fbody.com/timeslips/member.cgi?id=560

This measured on a Superflow SF-840 Chassis Dyno from.

I got 351 RWHP at 6,000 rpms with a PCMforless.com mail order tune, the tq I couldnt get a good measure cus the car would down shift anything less than 4400 rpms.

Not bad at all for a small cam, but I just ordered my new bumpstick from Bret Bauer, and I cant wait for new numbers, also then the bottle goes on!!

 

This setup wil be dyno tuned at the same place, and I will finish tweaking it out. I am very happy with the numbers given the HD drivetrain.

 

Looks good Aaron.

 

Thanks man, I sent my payment in for the cam ill get the spec to you soon and hopefully see 370-390 to the rear wheels. I know people with GM847 383's with higher stalled autos and 8.8/9"/12bolt rears doing in the same range, so if I dont get over 400 n/a, the bottle is really going to make it shine!

 

I suspect Bret's cam should net you 30rwhp easy over the hotcam, I wouldnt doubt 380-390rwhp at all. If you do hit 380rwhp, then that would be around 420-430rwhp if you had an M6 and 10 bolt rear...thats stout for stock LT1 castings with a typical "stage 2" port job. Put a 200 shot on and call it a day

 

Even though nu-tek went under, they still made a stout motor, I sure wished I went with larger valves, but at the time I didnt know about the issues with enlarging valves with port work already done.

But if I ever change heads, im doing them for the last time and that would be lloyd's turn.

 

Man you are running some really respectable times with that combo. Who cares about dyno numbers if you can run 12.0s!

 

One of the things that you have holding you back is a emissions requirement. That's going to really limit the size of the camshaft so I dont expect it to be close to the GM847 in size.

Either way going 12.0's with the RWHP you have is pretty dam good, the cam should get you enough to help you into the 11's.

Bret

 

Yea, we had this discussion, and the GM847 cam is a monster of a stick in my own opinion, but what is offered off the shelf does not satisfy my requirements of the motor, one of them being Emissions (roller) and I have to be able to ge through that.

As for the best time of 12.084 at 113 mph, thats last years time based on this.... (this is not a joke)

1) Ran at Lebenon Valley Dragway in West Lebenon, NY (garbage track) http://www.lvd.com

2) 2000 rpm pro torque stall on a slipping tranny (dead fluid pressure selinoid), now it has the 2500 rpm stall, new rebuild, and stall wall fix

3) 10 Bolt GM rear with 3.23 gears and a slipping posi (hence the 12 bolt upgrade)

4) Stock suspension with exception of Tubular BMR rear LCA's, thats it.

5) Rear tire was a 245/50-16 Nitto Drag radial. 50 psi in the front and 26 psi in the rear.

This year I spent the entire season getting the bugs worked out of this combo from upper rpm missfires, and hitting the stall wall. So I replace the fuel pump, fixed the stall wall, and fixed the ignition **** up.

I have a possible 3 more times LVD is open for T&T on saturday, last saturday it was Mopars at the Valley and I couldnt run, and this one is going to be a wash out so I got 2 more times to go. I will get a good run with the M/T et radials asap.

 

What's this stall wall and how did you fix it? Awesome times and setup BTW.

 

Oh here is my fastest time recorded, it was 1 week prior to the 12.084, it was against a 2002 Viper GTS with a couple mods, he did run better but i smoked his *** and his best time was a good half second slower than mine

http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/~scr...ith%20Mods.WMV (right-click save as)

Oh stall was basically is when you bring the rpms via foot braking the car, OR letting the converter flash up and you so happen to have a stall converter than can go over 2800, it will basically freak out and throw you into 3rd gear. After you slow to a stop (at the bottom of the track), you notice it takes to like 4000 rpms before you move.

Thats the WALL!!

You shut the car down and turn her back on and its fixed.

I have a 2500 rpm stall and cus of my power in the lower rpms, and the good tires I have, it bit hard and flashed past that rpm, mine being 2800.

You can have a stall that is rated higher than 2800 on a 94-95 fbody but may not be able to get past that point, hence they dont hit the wall. Unfortunately I did.

Bryan Herter fixed mine 2 weeks ago, and no more wall and the car launches HARD! I also found out is there is no longer a limit on rpm for a stall converter and there is NO negative effect from driving from a roll, the tranny will downshift as normal.

 

Nice set up...Don't put too much stock in dyno numbers..Mine put down 400rwhp at one Dyno Jet and 385 when Bryan Herter tuned mine on another Dyno Jet in Reading, PA I posted the results and had all kinds of people telling me that something was wrong somewhere in my set up...and that my 226/234 cam was way too small for a 383...

Two weeks ago I went 11.90s at 115 with 1.68 60's in 90 deg heat with 76% humidity with 16x8s all around and 255 MT Drag Radials and both sway bars in place. My old set up never would've touched the 11s in heat or without front skinnies...I'll be running 11.50s at 118 in good air looking bone stock right down to the 16x8 silver 5 stars all around...

With the new cam you should fly...Good luck with everything...

--Alan

 

I am glad you mentioned that, I am going to another dyno that I used before the place I go to now. I'll be going on the 16th. So I can compare the numbers and see how much they vary, its a dynojet but a different model..