Dynoed at 377rwhp SAE can I get more out of it?
Dynoed at 377rwhp SAE can I get more out of it?
377rwhp SAE motor only. Graph is below. 52mm throttle body, 306 cam, LE1 heads, etc through m6 and 9" rearend. Anyhow their air/fuel wideband was not working, but on mine when he wot it, the guage showed 12.2 to 12.4 most the time. If I could get the PCMforless guy to safely lean it out somemore how many more ponies do you think I could get? Also can you really go from 363 to 377rwhp in just three dyno runs with no dynotuning? I think all they did was MAYBE move a fan somewhere.Thanks for anyhelp.


They had a graph with the rpm, I think the guy was messing with it and forgot to switch it back to rpm before I took the picture. He is suppose to email me the graphs because there printer was out and hopefully he is smart enough to know send me the rpm graph.
If your at 12.4 and want to go leaner, I would say your gains would be marginal. Take a look at existing graphs that graph AFR vs torque. They all indicate that torque drops off slowly if richened from optimal. Maybe thinking 1-2%.
so your thinking that I'm pretty close to what I'm gonna get out of my setup? or is there anything else that will really give me much noticable gains?
Last edited by djm_e22; Jul 12, 2009 at 12:35 PM.
The only way to know for sure is to lean it out. I run in the 12.8-13.0 range on street stuff. Sometimes you get a huge gain. I had drag race stuff on the dyno and seen it; one time going from 12.5 (where the dyno operator wanted to leave it) up to 13.2 where we left it picked it up about 80hp on an sb2.2 engine. Then you can still play with timing to see if you find anything. Sometimes engines can be very a/f sensitive or timing sensitive. You just have to mess with it to see what it likes best. There is no cut and dried tune it to X a/f ratio and * timing for max power.
To really tell what can be had, a dyno tune is in order. Just leaning the mixture out may yield something but who knows how much...
He is suppose to email me the one with the rpms soon. So I'll get you guys that one. The mph was not suppose to be on there.
I can only find someone to dyno my car. I can't find anyone to dynotune a LT1 in North Texas. So no I can't find anyone with the software to play with the timing. This sucks.
Stick a '95 pcm in there and get them to adjust that (shops usually have a 94/95 tuner like tunercat, it's way cheaper). Then just send those figures to pcm4less with your odb2 pcm to have him copy it.
Hal
Hal
If I go ahead and buy a '95 pcm obd 1 to get tuned, should I just go ahead and use it instead of sending my obd2 pcm to get copied? Cause I thought the obd1 got better horsepower numbers for some reason.
If Texas doesn't have smog checking then maybe. I'm in CA where you can't get away with that.
I guess it would be around $200 to get Tunercat, the cable, and the pcm (one guy in the 4sale section is selling a pcmcia serial card and cable for $55). One place for good prices on the pcm is www.car-parts.com Put in '95 as the year, camaro, and "engine computer". Select engine 5.7. Any type of car will do (caprice, firebird, Buick Roadmaster). Then swap pcms but you got a pcm from another type of car don't start the car without using a laptop to swap the correct .bin into the pcm (there are .bin files for A4 auto with different gears or the manual). Also, you have to change the injector constants (one of the first things in the constants table) to 42 for those injectors, the gear ratio, and you should lower the 100 map advance cells a little and take it real easy on the way to the shop (NO WOT blasts). Maybe somebody has a good .bin already for the 306 cam. You can also use an lt1 Edit File (tunercat can read those as well).
Hal
I guess it would be around $200 to get Tunercat, the cable, and the pcm (one guy in the 4sale section is selling a pcmcia serial card and cable for $55). One place for good prices on the pcm is www.car-parts.com Put in '95 as the year, camaro, and "engine computer". Select engine 5.7. Any type of car will do (caprice, firebird, Buick Roadmaster). Then swap pcms but you got a pcm from another type of car don't start the car without using a laptop to swap the correct .bin into the pcm (there are .bin files for A4 auto with different gears or the manual). Also, you have to change the injector constants (one of the first things in the constants table) to 42 for those injectors, the gear ratio, and you should lower the 100 map advance cells a little and take it real easy on the way to the shop (NO WOT blasts). Maybe somebody has a good .bin already for the 306 cam. You can also use an lt1 Edit File (tunercat can read those as well).
Hal
Last edited by Hal Fisher; Jul 14, 2009 at 07:52 AM.


