How do you consider those decent numbers when 100,000 mile cam only LT1's are making more power? How big is the cam that you have? Like someone else said, those are numbers that would be expected out of a hotcam and full bolt on car (untouched heads).

You also still haven't convinced that a 383 would be a better choice than a 355.

 

The custom cam must be small. Is the car also emmissions legal? Care
to share the cam specs? It sounds like you have another 20-30 hp on
the table with some tweaking and tuning.

 

I always thought it was common knowledge that there is no replacement for displacement. Are you saying a 355 will make more power over a 383?
Or do you mean spending more money on a rebuild for a 383 is not worth it?

On most rebuilds, a 383 is not much more money anway over a 355. If you are really cheap, and can deal with less tq and hp, then a 355 would make sense.

 

227/233 112 lsa

 

You just proved my point. That's all I wanted out of this thing until I could afford to do the top end. I was told by several people that it was a waste of money, obviously it wasn't. It's running every bit as strong as a mildly modded 350, only with more potential for when I do the heads.

 

I was saying that nothing HE said was convincing regarding building a 383. Is sounded to me like he was saying that his power numbers were enough to convince people to do the build. I'm fully aware of the benefits of building a 383. On stock heads, I'd stay with a 355. If you have the cash for AFR's or something equivalent, then you'll be able to unleash the full potential of a 383. I like my high revving 355.

 

Your cam is bigger than a hotcam.

 

The major difference I've found over the years in favor of a 383 is you can still make great power and torque at a lower rpm using a smaller cam, which helps the short block last longer...It also maintains good streetability because you can go with a somewhat smaller stall converter to match the smaller cam. I'm on my 12th year with this short block (the only motor this thing has ever had) and only rev it to 6300...

J Rod, It'd be nice to see a dyno/track comparison when you get the heads done..

--Alan

 

Had you taken one half ($3500 of that $7000) that you spent and used it toward heads/intake/injectors, and put the rest in rebuilding the bottom end with maybe a set of forged pistons and stock crank/rods, you could be making 100rwhp more and 30rwtq more and the car would be over 1second and 10mph quicker at the track: for the same money.

That being said, if you are happy with the numbers, then that is all that matters...

 

If I understood him correctly, I think he meant that $7000 included the purchase of the car as well.

 

I put down 303rwhp in my car with just boltons when it was an auto. If I put an E-WP on I would have broken 310rwhp through an auto, so you're just above bolton LT1's congrats.

 

For a lot of you who are still bashing him, you just don't get it or you are reading more into it than what he has stated. All he is saying is that if you are rebuilding your motor but can't afford all of the go fast goodies, do not be afraid to build a 383 and put your stock top end on it. Then later on down the road when you can afford a top end then do it. That's it.
FWIW, a 383 is going to make more power with the same top end package than a 355 anyday of the week. And it'll be more reliable.

 

That's exactly what I meant.

And speed demon, read the post below yours. If you can that is, obviously you were unable to comprehend all the others in this thread.

 

Not necessarily at 6800-7000 rpm.

 

I don't know what you consider lightly modified LS-1 territory... I've beaten quite a few of those in my car. The only LS1 that got me so far was equipped with headers, lid, exhaust, tune. Not to mention it was a 02 WS6... I was just wondering how you were just in lightly modified territory with those numbers... Or maybe what do you consider lightly modified?