Ok, so here they are.



Basically, it dies right around 4500. Running lean too. Engine bucks and goes into a fit past that, won't go higher than 5k. What do you guys think? I'm thinking fuel pump is maxed out. It's a stock pump btw. As for the power, what gives? It seems like it should be higher. Could 1/2 turn preload on my rockers be robbing me of that much power? I could really use some input here. This does not make me happy.

 

If the stock fuel pump is healthy, it's not maxed out at those numbers. Looks like the tune is off.

 

The bucking needs to be checked out. I'd get it scanned. Make sure you can determine if its a hardware or tune issue.

 

yeeeooww..... you need more fuel you are lean the whole way across...

whoever was running the car on the dyno should have shut it down and not made that pull

you dont need more fuel pump, and your injectors are plenty big... you need to work on that tune

 

looks like a high rpm miss

a missfire can cause a lean condition, you'd have to be REALLY running that pump dry to have it bucking like u describe, even when I had a dieing fuel pump that would get a max of 30psi at WOT it wouldn't break up

I'd check plug wires and plug, then possibly opti

is it throwing any codes?

 

Not sure if this is a good comparison, but my car is on what id assume is a stock OEM fuel pump, and it seems to run fine.

 

Ok, the fuel pump was just a thought. It's fairly new, so I guess that's not my problem. No SES light, and it doesn't feel like a misfire (I've had a miss twice before, so I know what to look for). I asked my bro and he said it was probably the tune.

Wires are fairly new and OTVC so I know they're not burned. I'm going to do some searching on high RPM misses and see if anything sounds familiar.

 

What valve springs? Valve float?

 

They're Comp 918s, but it's one of the good batches, Lloyd checked up on it for me.

 

Ok, so I'm fairly confident it's not valve float, although tomorrow I'm going to pull off the valve covers and check them all for broken ones. Also going to reset my lash to 1/8 turn.

I'm debating replacing the opti, but that will probably be next in order. I'm also debating getting a dyno tune to try and sort this out.

 

Resetting your lash from 1/2 to 1/8 turn will make no difference in your problem. May just make your rockers a bit noiser.

 

Doesn't look like valve float. Looks more ignition related than anything.

 

I know, but Lloyd recommended I do it, and I might as well while the valve covers are off.

Good to hear, I guess that's where I'll start. Gonna check the wires tomorrow, maybe try to get a replacement coil wire from MSD, and then probably replace the opti. I found some oil in it anyway when I took it apart for my h/c/i, cleaned it out but I guess the damage was already done.

 

it has potential. Once things are sorted out with your tune it should lay down some pretty good numbers.

 

Someone posted on here a while back on some methods he used successfully to get new optisparks to last. Had something to do with sealing the cap and rotor and the little crews/bolts with sealant that helped keep bad things out. Seemed like a logical Idea but yeah I agree it looks like a definate ignition issue. Valve float doesn't look like that. The fatct that it jumps around like that is ignition related.

If you go with a new opti I recommend either an OEM unit or a dynaspark opti.