Dyno Numbers In !!
Went to the dyno last night numbers
382rwhp @ 6500rpm
347ftlbs
afr is a little of from 3300rpm to 4800rpm 12.0 from 4800 up 13.0afr, so there should be more in the car
Advance heads (phil this would be a good time to give me the final flow numbers)
gm 847 cam
rk sport headers
all the outher stuff
382rwhp @ 6500rpm
347ftlbs
afr is a little of from 3300rpm to 4800rpm 12.0 from 4800 up 13.0afr, so there should be more in the car
Advance heads (phil this would be a good time to give me the final flow numbers)
gm 847 cam
rk sport headers
all the outher stuff
Hrm, they're okay dyno #'s. I thought i sent you the #'s? I'll re-email them to you.
For the ppl who dont know.. I was trying to fix a set of ARE LT1's. Unfortunately they had a couple spots I couldn't do anything about w/o adding material to all of the ports.
Peak was 272cfm @ .600 IIRC, but the midlift #'s weren't what I normally get I don't think b/c their stuff (shape & huge venturi) was so jacked up to begin with.
I'll dig them up this afternoon & re-send though
.
I hope yer happy, I guess you picked up 40hp or so going from their stage 2 stuff to what I did, so not too bad, but not great. A good example for others who don't want to start with unmolested stuff
For the ppl who dont know.. I was trying to fix a set of ARE LT1's. Unfortunately they had a couple spots I couldn't do anything about w/o adding material to all of the ports.
Peak was 272cfm @ .600 IIRC, but the midlift #'s weren't what I normally get I don't think b/c their stuff (shape & huge venturi) was so jacked up to begin with.
I'll dig them up this afternoon & re-send though
.I hope yer happy, I guess you picked up 40hp or so going from their stage 2 stuff to what I did, so not too bad, but not great. A good example for others who don't want to start with unmolested stuff
i am doing the tune with tuner cat, this was my frist time(ever) tring to tune the wot of the car i know there is more in it i got the info i need
i am a m6 car, on the dyno i went to 7000rpm from i pick at 6700 @ 6500rpm i am the same.
any help with tuning?
and yes i am happy over my stage2 stuff
i am a m6 car, on the dyno i went to 7000rpm from i pick at 6700 @ 6500rpm i am the same.
any help with tuning?
and yes i am happy over my stage2 stuff
YA i need help with tuning i have kr at 4000 rpm 7* up to about 5500rpm but it drop off but when i made this pull i was 11.0afr how can i have kr ?
i can send you my file all the help the better
And Altjar this is my frist time ever tuning wot, so
i can send you my file all the help the better
And Altjar this is my frist time ever tuning wot, so
Last edited by Schurters LT1; Sep 27, 2003 at 02:03 PM.
Ok kr at
4475-7*
4650-6*
4825-3.9*
5200-2.1*
5300-1.4*
5400-0.9
5525-0.7
56 -0.6
57 -0.4
6000 -0.4
6300 -0.3
datamaster run's out how do you get datamaster to go to 7000rpm
all there help would be great thx
4475-7*
4650-6*
4825-3.9*
5200-2.1*
5300-1.4*
5400-0.9
5525-0.7
56 -0.6
57 -0.4
6000 -0.4
6300 -0.3
datamaster run's out how do you get datamaster to go to 7000rpm
all there help would be great thx
Hey we all have to start somewhere! lt1edit has a mailing list you may want to join if you are really into the tuning thing. Some really smart people on there.
First of all, no scanners will record past 6375 rpms because of the way binary numbers get translated blah blah blah, so there you are stuck.
Next step, go fill up with some HIGH octane non leaded fuel, and do a couple wide open runs. If the knock goes away, you were experiencing real knock. If it doesnt go away, you were picking up valvetrain noise, header noise etc as knock. Knock retard KILLS power. The computer pulls timing out quickly and adds it back in VERY slowly. If you were getting real knock, you need to pull out a little timing at the specific map/rpm that you experienced the knock, and repeat. NO KNOCK is the only acceptable route.
If you experienced false knock, you need to desensitize the sensor a tad. More on how to do that later if this is the problem.
First of all, no scanners will record past 6375 rpms because of the way binary numbers get translated blah blah blah, so there you are stuck.
Next step, go fill up with some HIGH octane non leaded fuel, and do a couple wide open runs. If the knock goes away, you were experiencing real knock. If it doesnt go away, you were picking up valvetrain noise, header noise etc as knock. Knock retard KILLS power. The computer pulls timing out quickly and adds it back in VERY slowly. If you were getting real knock, you need to pull out a little timing at the specific map/rpm that you experienced the knock, and repeat. NO KNOCK is the only acceptable route.
If you experienced false knock, you need to desensitize the sensor a tad. More on how to do that later if this is the problem.
Originally posted by Schurters LT1
And Altjar this is my frist time ever tuning wot, so
And Altjar this is my frist time ever tuning wot, so
Originally posted by atljar
You should be MUCH higher than that IMO with a m6 car.
Seeing any knock retard?
You should be MUCH higher than that IMO with a m6 car.
Seeing any knock retard?
Originally posted by LPE Z convt
So IYO what is a good dyno # for this cam? I think one of the highest i have seen for m6 with this cam was 412rwhp .....
So IYO what is a good dyno # for this cam? I think one of the highest i have seen for m6 with this cam was 412rwhp .....


