why doesnt everybody quit arguing over witch is better. Both are Bada**. I luv both of my fbodys and i think both have their weakneses but so what they are fbodys

 

You picked the right one to modify.

 

He modified both.

So yeah he picked the right ones to modify. You know, F-bodies

 

LS1- I believe it's already been mentioned. Rob Raymer(I think) has made over 130 dyno runs with an LS1 with a giant turbo. Almost hitting 800hp. All that was changed were the springs and lifters.

LT1- There is a guy in my area with I believe 200k on the clock and it is a bone stock motor. Valve covers never lifted. The catch, he sprays a 200 shot regularly....and for I think 3 years or so.

In the end, who really cares. There's gonna be a few bad eggs in both categories. They're both excellent motors.

 

an ls1 was designed to be more efficent and have better technology.so does it really make sense that it would be designed to hold up under less hp?


why this fact keeps being questioned i dont understand.keep denying and youll be left behind.be happy theres newer and better motors coming out instead of denying theyre better.



ive seen non fbody boards give ls1s more credit then i see on here sometimes.

 

What do you expect, this is the LT1 section!

Durability wise, stock versus stock, they are both the same. The 6-bolt mains make-up for the aluminum block of the LS1, and the 2-bolt mains of the F-body LT1 are at least supported by an iron block. Both use powdered metal rods and a Nodular crank, but I know the LS1 uses that "cracked rod cap" technology for it's rods.

Pricewise, if you look, they are steadily going down for LS1 parts. The special heads, Opti, waterpump, etc. that are unique to the LT1 will surely go up in price as they get older because the LT1 was only made for 6 years, but at least components like the crank, rods, and machining are easily available because they shared with standard SBC's.

And if you want to the cheaper route with rebuilding an LS1 block, you can always use the iron versions out of the GM truck line.

Honestly, though, I've seen and read about plenty of LS1's laying down 500-600rwhp on the stock shortblock. I can only speculate and guess that maybe a 4-bolt main LT1 from a Vette might be able to match those numbers on the stockshortblock, though I have yet to hear of one.

 

ponchoV8

What Mods did you do to your 97 for 300$ that got you those #'s ???

 

My mods for that dynoday were:
-Moroso CAI
-custom cold air scoop
-free mods
-Flowtech Warlock 3-in muffler with built-in cutout on otherwise stock exhaust

I should change my sig. because I don't believe that to be correct anymore because I dynoed a second time two years later, with only the addition of a Hypertech airfoil and 160* therm., and I only laid down 260rwhp. Both numbers were with the cutout opened and both were done on a DynoJet, though at different shops. The 278rwhp run I had a lean of 17:1 supposedly, while the 260rwhp run my A/F was at around 11-12:1. I have yet to break into 13's (14.05 best )thanks to my crappy '60's, but I always trap around 100-102mph if that tells you anything. I'll be making up the 18hp loss real soon though, and then some.

 

Oic ...

Just one more ? ... Sorry to hijack the thread btw lol

Did you ever have any problems with the scoop? I was going to make one but I always wondered if it would lead to sucking water in during the rain lol ...

 

ls1's are stronger. The bottom ends have held 300 shots of juice and 775rwhp and 840tq with a tubro. Check out ls1tech.com

 

I used a dryer duct from Wal-Mart. Cut a hole with a Dremel on the panel beneath the filter and mounted it. I'm pretty sure the filter gets wet on really rainy days, but not bad enough to suck water all the way to the MAF. Only problem I've had is I've gone thru 3 ducts because I kept crushing them on parking curbs.; that hasn't happened in a while though.

 

Well... it was made more efficent, yes. It's bore was decreased for emmisions purposes, and they gave it more stroke to get the displacement back. Thats effecient... sure.... but do you know what that means? Piston speed is through the roof. You want a certain amount... but this means that at high RPMs the LS1 is stressing it's components WAY more than an LT1. The only reason that an LS1 redlines higher than an LT1 is that the LS1 heads are breathers and like to rev.

 

i dont know what that has to do with anything but theres plenty of ls1s that get the **** revved out of them and hold up fine.


theyre designed to last a long time and be more streetable with more hp.

 

They are both great engines. I REALLY want a 427 iron block LS1. Maybe in a C6...

Two points, though:

Most of the guys going big hp, big cube LS1s are going to the iron block. Besides the bigger bores possible, the steel is stronger. If anything breaks inside an aluminum block, you buy a new block...

It's also very hard to keep the head gaskets in high output LS1s. Due to the fewer head bolts, keeping them torqued down is a real issue when approaching 1000 hp. Guys are o-ringing them and using higher tensile strength bolts, etc. and still having problems. In some respects, the LS1 shares more design history with the 351w Ford engine than the small block Chevy...

I built the LT1, because I owned one. If I was starting fresh, I'd probably go with the LS1. There are some very cool products coming out that push the technology and the LS1 will have the advantage there.

 

It has to do with it because the piston is going farther up and down for every revolution, causing it to stress the entire engine WAY more than an LT1 does.... HOW IS THIS TOUGH TO UNDERSTAND?!

If you still don't get it, grab a bowling ball. Put it in a pillow case tied to a 5ft rope. Hang on to the rope. Drop it off of a roof. Now do the same thing, but force it down. It was going faster and damn near pulled your arm out of socket huh? THATS why a faster piston isn't going to stand up to having the crap revved out of it.

All engines are designed to last a long time... or so I would hope. What do you mean be more streetable with more HP? How so? Frankly I don't think that GM gives a rats *** how long a car lasts or how streetable it is once you void the warranty. At that point it's no longer their problem.
Tony - I would love to build an iron LS1. Once you get past the dumb **** that GM did with it, it's a really cool designe.