Dumping my steed, gettin a Z28.
Dumping my steed, gettin a Z28.
I don't know much about Camaro suspension, but I just wanted to ask what is a good aftermarket front setup, comparable to a Griggs in price and performance. I looked around and I don't know what is the real deal or just hyped up boltons.
Do I need subframe connectors? Will the Camaro have as much grip as a Mustang on the turns? Will the rear end suspension try to ripp itself off the frame like my Mustang? I want to build a G-machine.
If you know which are the parts that will work at a reasonable price, please help! Thanks in advance.
Do I need subframe connectors? Will the Camaro have as much grip as a Mustang on the turns? Will the rear end suspension try to ripp itself off the frame like my Mustang? I want to build a G-machine.
If you know which are the parts that will work at a reasonable price, please help! Thanks in advance.
The longer wheel base camaro should be able to out handle a mustang.
As far as drag racing. It is easier to get a mustang to hook and go on a track then a Camaro. Not trying to bash GM or camaros just shorter wheel base cars work really good at drag strips.
As far as drag racing. It is easier to get a mustang to hook and go on a track then a Camaro. Not trying to bash GM or camaros just shorter wheel base cars work really good at drag strips.
Last edited by Sax1031; Mar 19, 2003 at 12:15 PM.
You want forward Gs, or sideways Gs. Either way for more help there are specific forums for each question, suspension and drag racing. But if you want forward, shocks, LCS, SFCs, panhard rod, torque arm.
For sideways, get the G2 coilover kit, new upper and lower A-arms for the front, panhard, swaybars, STB, rollcage.
For sideways, get the G2 coilover kit, new upper and lower A-arms for the front, panhard, swaybars, STB, rollcage.
look into BMR products the make top notch suspension components at reasonable prices.
also look into LG motosports, all their stuff is track tested and they make a pretty good front coil-over setup from what i've read.
also look into LG motosports, all their stuff is track tested and they make a pretty good front coil-over setup from what i've read.
If you want a G machine, your in the wrong forum! AutoX/RR forum is towards the bottom of the forum index.
If you want grip, well I would have told you to go with another car (1700-2200 pound cars
), but not everyone likes small cars. I do, because I got to experience the difference between the two, and my 240Z blows the doors off the Z28 in terms of cornering. Plus, trying to fit, and buy, 17x12" wheels for 335 rubber on all four corners gets damn expensive, then you still have to deal with trying to make the brakes stop a heavy car, and etc etc, everything is more expensive on a larger car.
Get big rubber, forget Z28 16x8" stuff, unless you will have a street set and race tire set, still though, I like big. I am shooting for a minimum of 16x10" or 17x9" on my 240Z, I am dropping in the turbo engine this weekend and shooting for maybe 400# torque. Even with my dinky 15x7" wheels (3rd gen Camaro size), it grips to no end and is an extremely predictable handler, wether its the neutral weight distribution, the independant rear, or both, I dont know. Either way the whole car rocks in near stock form, including the brakes, the Camaro sucks in terms of braking in stock form. You get used to it while driving it, but when you experience something that has the same size brakes but weighs about 1200 pounds less, well there is a big difference.
So, IMO for a real handler weight is KING, as long as its not a crappy car to try and take at high speeds (sorry VW Bug fans). I also wanted the 240Z over a 510 because a V8 or other engine swap is much easier to do, plus the 510 is a bit of a brick, but they still out corner because they race at about 1700 pounds, like a Porsche 914 (too expensive to upgrade).
I would also get an LS1 if your coming from a Steeda, the LT1 is a fine car, but why not go "all the way," unless of course you want to sink massive dough into the car stripping it and etc More power potential and slightly lighter, and the brakes are better stock in the LS1 cars. Of course if you want the real deal then you can upgrade the brakes from $250-$4,500 or thereabouts.
Coil overs (various brands), Konis or revalved Bilsteins (I have Koni DA on the car), BIG rubber, and big brakes/steel lines, subframe connectors and some type of roll cage or at least a 4 point bar. Then you can worry about sway bars and bushing here or there, panhard rod, LCAs and relocation brackets (you'll need them after lowering the car, unless you want the rear stepping out everywhere). All kinds of things to upgrade.
I still like the Camaro, but I wanted to go FAST in corners!
Again as I noted too, a lighter car will end up being easier on parts and mostly cheaper to work with, and easier to make go fast in a couple of ways.
Hit the AutoX/RR forum!
I had a 97 Cobra BTW (no IRS), and between the two the Camaro is "better" to me, some who race in CMC though just say its easier to drive fast.
If you want grip, well I would have told you to go with another car (1700-2200 pound cars
), but not everyone likes small cars. I do, because I got to experience the difference between the two, and my 240Z blows the doors off the Z28 in terms of cornering. Plus, trying to fit, and buy, 17x12" wheels for 335 rubber on all four corners gets damn expensive, then you still have to deal with trying to make the brakes stop a heavy car, and etc etc, everything is more expensive on a larger car.Get big rubber, forget Z28 16x8" stuff, unless you will have a street set and race tire set, still though, I like big. I am shooting for a minimum of 16x10" or 17x9" on my 240Z, I am dropping in the turbo engine this weekend and shooting for maybe 400# torque. Even with my dinky 15x7" wheels (3rd gen Camaro size), it grips to no end and is an extremely predictable handler, wether its the neutral weight distribution, the independant rear, or both, I dont know. Either way the whole car rocks in near stock form, including the brakes, the Camaro sucks in terms of braking in stock form. You get used to it while driving it, but when you experience something that has the same size brakes but weighs about 1200 pounds less, well there is a big difference.
So, IMO for a real handler weight is KING, as long as its not a crappy car to try and take at high speeds (sorry VW Bug fans). I also wanted the 240Z over a 510 because a V8 or other engine swap is much easier to do, plus the 510 is a bit of a brick, but they still out corner because they race at about 1700 pounds, like a Porsche 914 (too expensive to upgrade).
I would also get an LS1 if your coming from a Steeda, the LT1 is a fine car, but why not go "all the way," unless of course you want to sink massive dough into the car stripping it and etc More power potential and slightly lighter, and the brakes are better stock in the LS1 cars. Of course if you want the real deal then you can upgrade the brakes from $250-$4,500 or thereabouts.
Coil overs (various brands), Konis or revalved Bilsteins (I have Koni DA on the car), BIG rubber, and big brakes/steel lines, subframe connectors and some type of roll cage or at least a 4 point bar. Then you can worry about sway bars and bushing here or there, panhard rod, LCAs and relocation brackets (you'll need them after lowering the car, unless you want the rear stepping out everywhere). All kinds of things to upgrade.
I still like the Camaro, but I wanted to go FAST in corners!
Again as I noted too, a lighter car will end up being easier on parts and mostly cheaper to work with, and easier to make go fast in a couple of ways.Hit the AutoX/RR forum!
I had a 97 Cobra BTW (no IRS), and between the two the Camaro is "better" to me, some who race in CMC though just say its easier to drive fast.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought that mustangs, especially points had really light back ends... isn't that bad for traction?
Ehh, I like the way my car handles, I have bilsteins shocks and eibach springs. DO SUBFRAMES (BMR boxed, nothing else), they are one of my favorite mods, it makes the car feel completely different. Actually, anything you do to the frame will yield a very noticeable difference.... strut tower brace, subframes, lower control arms, panhard rod. If you really want to hang in the twisties go with G2 or ground control coilovers in addition... they cost a little more but they are adjustable coilovers, nuff said. I have bilsteins and pro kit that I got for a total of about 475 shipped and they are GREAT! I don't even brake for turns any more just hold the gear, swing that bitch, and smash out.
Oh and I highly doubt you will have problems with the rear trying to rip itself out... haha. However, that is the biggest weakness in the F-Body... the damn 10-bolt rear end. Do not put slicks on it unless you have another 1500-2000 for a new 12 bolt or a ford 9 because it WILL break.
Recap:
For the frame, go with as much BMR stuff as you can (stuff I listed above). For the springs/shocks it all depends on what you want. If you get an LT1 get bigger brakes, I did a brake upgrade.... nothing fancy but it gets the job done and I find myself overestimating the brakes of any other car I drive. Watch out for that rear end too. I know lots of mustang guys throw gears on... with our 6 speeds you want anywhere from 3.73-4.10 and for an auto you want 3.42-3.73. Good luck!
Ehh, I like the way my car handles, I have bilsteins shocks and eibach springs. DO SUBFRAMES (BMR boxed, nothing else), they are one of my favorite mods, it makes the car feel completely different. Actually, anything you do to the frame will yield a very noticeable difference.... strut tower brace, subframes, lower control arms, panhard rod. If you really want to hang in the twisties go with G2 or ground control coilovers in addition... they cost a little more but they are adjustable coilovers, nuff said. I have bilsteins and pro kit that I got for a total of about 475 shipped and they are GREAT! I don't even brake for turns any more just hold the gear, swing that bitch, and smash out.
Oh and I highly doubt you will have problems with the rear trying to rip itself out... haha. However, that is the biggest weakness in the F-Body... the damn 10-bolt rear end. Do not put slicks on it unless you have another 1500-2000 for a new 12 bolt or a ford 9 because it WILL break.
Recap:
For the frame, go with as much BMR stuff as you can (stuff I listed above). For the springs/shocks it all depends on what you want. If you get an LT1 get bigger brakes, I did a brake upgrade.... nothing fancy but it gets the job done and I find myself overestimating the brakes of any other car I drive. Watch out for that rear end too. I know lots of mustang guys throw gears on... with our 6 speeds you want anywhere from 3.73-4.10 and for an auto you want 3.42-3.73. Good luck!
Look at specs more than brand names. You wont find but a handfull of companies that sell engine parts and suspension stuff at the same time for these cars, unless they are resellers, wether they put thier name on the product or not.
Think of an item you want and ask info about it specifically, like subframes, etc I would not be brand loyal on every single peice.
Think of an item you want and ask info about it specifically, like subframes, etc I would not be brand loyal on every single peice.
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