When I picked up my rebuilt trans from the trans shop, the mechanic told me that I could install the torque converter dry and just fill it through the dipstick. Now I've already installed it dry and I've been reading on here that you CANNOT install a torque converter dry??? I really don't want to pull the trans on my back in my garage so if anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

 

I forgot to mention that it's just a 2075rpm stall dayco converter that came standard with the rebuild...

 

I know someone out there has some sort of an answer for me!! ...TTT

 

no one wants to give you the bad news.......trans has to come out.
Converter needs at least 1 quart of fluid in it, preferably 2.
you might get away with it but then again you could trash the converter too.
I would pull it.

 

1. Put in 8-9 quarts of ATF.

2. Disconnect the coil wire.

3. Crank the engine over for 10 seconds. Wait a few minutes so
you don't cook the starter. Repeat 2X.

This will prime the converter with enough ATF before starting it. Don't forget to reconnect the coil wire.

Start it up. Then:

Put it into reverse and drive several times with the brake ON and
check the fluid level after the tranny gets hot. Add ATF fluid as necessary.

 

never heard that.

Hope it works for you.

 

I have heard that before too. My brother is an ASE Tech and he swears you don't need to put fluid in the convertor before installing it.

But I still didn't believe him! I just felt a whole lot better putting fluid in it before installing it.

 

I would remove the PCM BATT fuse rather than just the coil wire, so that you don't dump a bunch of fuel in the engine while doing all that cranking.

 

Just an FYI. I worked for Nissan at one of there transaxle plants. We would flush the TQ out up side down to make sure it was clean. But it would have very little ATF in it after that. Then it went on the trans and off to the test machine. The tester would start spinning the TQ as AFT was filling the transmission. You could actually see the point where it was full and primed because the axial would start turning. Then it would go through a long series of test. Not sure if that realy help you though.

 

Thanks a lot guys... I'll probably give that a try but if anyone else has something to add please feel free....

 

I would remove the PCM Batt fuse instead of the coil wire, you'll save from the fuel building up from the injectors firing.