No you don't. Unless you screw with the tie rods somehow or the camber somehow.

 

you should always re-align a car when removing the subframe

it will not go back in exactly the way you took it out, even if only off a 1/16 it will throw off the toe, not to mention caster and camber from removing the struts

everytime i do a job that involves removing the subframe an alignment is automaticly figured into the estimate

 

Of course it's figured in. That means more money the customer has to spend. I've removed my k-member twice w/in the last 10 years. The last alignment I had was in '99 and the tires have always worn true. It's not necessary to get an alignment. There is no adjustment when taking the k-member on or off It's 6 fixed bolts. Argue it all you want. There are others just like me who haven't aligned their cars after doing an engine job from the bottom...

 

correct it is six fixed bolts, and 8 at the top of the strut towers, but do you honestly belive that there is no movement possible in all 14 of those bolts, if you dont believe me go get your alignment checked

not saying its always necessary but there have been more than a few cars i have checked that were way off, and not just a little off

listen to who you want, but i drop on an average 3-4 a week and i am an ase certifed technician

 

I just told you... my tires have worn true in the two times I've removed the k-member. That is the best and cheapest way to tell an alignment is good. There's no cupping, feathering or premature wear on either side of the tire. That's all the checking I need to do. I am not alone here. I may be mistaken, but the alignment has nothing to do with any of those 14 bolts, correct? I've never seen any "certified technician" screw with the 6 K-member bolts or the 8 holding the strut towers while doing an alignment.

 

if any of the six bolts holding the subframe in position are out just a little the toe will be off

if the strut towers (8 bolts up top) are off, even just a little, it will throw off the caster, camber, and toe

and if you never seen a technician "screw" with and of the 8 bolts holding the strut towers then you never seen an alignment being performed

 

I've seen plenty and I've never seen one loosen or tighten ANY of the strut tower bolts or k-member bolts... ever.
Like I said... the K-member bolts and the strut tower bolts are fixed. They don't move. The K-member will go back to the same position it was before it was taken off. Stop making crap up to save face already.

 

*walks away from thread allowing people to believe the guy who has admittingly done this 2 times in his life, or the guy who does this every day for a living*

 

Seriously... when you do an alignment you really loosen the strut tower bolts and the k-member bolts?

 

not the k-member bolts, but yes caster and camber can be both fixed(to a certain extent) with movement of the upper strut mounting bolts

most cars that is the only way to adjust the caster and camber

and when removing the k-member, although you are correct the location is fixed, it can and will go back slightly off, and by that i mean only a difference of maybe 1/16 of an inch and that will throw off your toe

 

Interesting... never seen any alignment tech screw with any of that and they've been able to get the alignment just right. I'll stick to my way since it works just fine.

 

...but a 4th gen has no stuts that you keep referring to...
Caster and camber is adjusted on the lower a-arm.

 

After thinking about this more... even if those eight strut tower bolts are loosened for alignment purposes... what exactly is adjusted while they're loose? I can't think of anything. Once again it looks like you are just making crap up to look smart and you've failed.... miserably. You are really ase certified?

 

the point i was trying to make is that when removing and replacing the k-member they might not go back exactly as you removed them

as shoebox stated alignment is usually adjusted on a f-body with the lower control arm, however when my camber was only slightly out i fixed it with a slight movement of my drivers side strut, without having to screw with the lower control arm

if the top of the strut is moved out it will increase positive camber, in will increase negative camber

forward- positive caster, back negative caster (pretty sure on these it gets confusing at times)

while making an adjustment is usually done withe the lower control arm, removing the k-member could alow for a slight movement up top

all i am saying is i recomend an alignment, if you or anyone else does not want to do it then dont, but i will doing on on my car

 

dangalla is definatly right dude because i just had an alignment done. so stop trying to give peole false info. i bet you haven't even seen an alignment done on one of these cars obviously. tell me this, if you know so much about the alignments on camaros tell me is there a "special" tool you need? i already know because im learning how to do alignments at my shop and i know a camaro is a pain in the ***.