Hey guys I was trying to follow shbox instruction on drain/flush/refill coolant, and with the tools I have I couldnt get the knock sensor out (frame is on the way of the extension and socket doesnt have enough grip). I managed to get the drain plug without problems, though I stripped it... but putting it back was major pita, I think I had to play with it for half an hour just to get it in.

So I am wondering if there is a way to drain the coolant thats in the block without touching those 2 (drain plug and knock sensor).

Thanks in advance.

 

The only way to fully drain the block is with those two places. They are the lowest coolant point in the block.

 

I was able to get to my knock sensor on my 95 Z with a 1/2 inch deep socket a short extension and 1/2 inch wratchet. I didnt have to take anything off except the wire connected to it.

 

ss7:
"but putting it back was major pita, I think I had to play with it for half an hour just to get it in."
I hear you. I wish GM had chamfered the hole in the block. The next time I tried using a thin 3/8" "wobble" extension ... that made reinstalling much easier.

 

Im in the process of this right now, I def feel your pain man

 

Thanks for all the replies guys, I think I will try one of those wobble extensions. On a side note, would it be enough to just remove knock sensor to drain the coolant completely. Or do I have to remove drain plug as well?

 

You need to remove both sides to drain all the coolant. A little trick I have used that gets a lot out of of the block is to take a powerful wet/dry vac and get the correct adapter to fit into the water pump. Turn on the vac and the coolant will come out. You have to block off the ports on the water pump obviously, but you'd be surprised how much will come out using this trick.

Draining the block is the best way to get all the coolant out, but if you can't get the KS out or the drain plug this method along with adding water a couple times would flush out the block pretty well IMO.

p.s.- this method is really nice if all you are doing is swapping out your opti and you don't need to drain the block completely- keeps the coolant from running all over when you take out your WP bolts and not having to mess around with the drain plugs...

 

Thanks again for all the suggestions guys, I got wobble 10" extension and it made day and night difference! I could get both plug and knock sensor pretty easily. So the coolant is replaced, all topped up but low coolant light is on these things just never stop on these cars I guess... Happened before too and went away eventually after few days, I hope this is the case.

 

ss7:
"So the coolant is replaced, all topped up but low coolant light is on"
Might be a "scum" buildup on the sensor. I've never had the problem or taken one out. Might just be a "wipe or scrape it clean" and good to go. Nice to have the warning working in case a hose develops a leak.

 

U got air in the system

 

Careful with that knock sensor. If it is too tight or too loose, it might affect the knock counts and timing. It is supposed to be torqued, not that it is always possible to do.