hey guys well last weekend i put in my 2 opti in three months and 3 sets of wires, and plugs. well at cold she runs great no sputter nothing. but as soon it goes in closed loop i hear a clicking sound and then the spark plugs start to arch at the cylinder heads around the nut part of the spark plug. what would cause that.. new icm, coil, grounded the heads to the ground block. can not think of any thing else besides when i was recording on the scanner on one of the frams the numbers are all screwed up no codes.. could it be the computer just got one tuned by pcm for less 2 months back... any help would be great thanks

 

My first thought would be cracked porcelain on the plugs but it's unlikely you would have cracked all of them unless you were just really rough when tightening them down...it would also do it in both open and closed loop. What kind of plugs / wires are you running? How is the fit of the wires onto the plugs? Can you feel them click into place? Are you sure it begins with closed loop operation or just once it warms up? Could the plugs themselves be loose?

 

What plugs are you running, and what gap?

 

all plugs are new from last weekend 104 and wires are granatelli that i did last night. its not the plugs or wires, did the same with ac delco and yes its only starts to do it in closed loop like i said it runs awsome in open no spark nothing but when in closed loop i hear a clicking sound then all the plugs start arching

 

104 with a hair under .50

 

alright just scanned my car this morning know im getting code 36 loss of high current. im at loss here tested all the wires dont know now it runs good in open and dies in closed loop cant find my ticking sound that im hearing before it dies.. any ideas any one

 

another update well got codes 36 41 42 44 im thinking its the computer because the vats was disabled and the icm is new and everything else is new.. has anyone run into this problem please let me know

 

Hopefully, they are gapped at 0.050", not .50

DCT 36 is for loss of the high resolution pulse pattern from the Opti. The engine will run with that code, but ignition timing accuracy is reduced.

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

Why do you think VATS is somehow involved?

DTC 36 = Distributor ignition system (faulty high resolution pulse or extra low resolution pulse detected)

DTC 41 = Ignition Control (IC) circuit (open circuit)

DTC 42 = Ignition Control (IC) circuit (shorted or grounded circuit)

DTC 44 = Bank 1 (left) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit (lean exhaust indicated)

36 is definitely an Opti problem. Check the two Opti harness wire connectors for corrosion or pin damage.

41 and 42 can be caused by the Opti problem, as well as wiring. They are not just for the IC Module

44 indicates a lean condition on the driver's side. Could be the result of misfires.

 

2 opti's in three months? Something is definitely wrong there. Have you checked your pin depth to make sure it's not pushing on the rotor? What kind of opti are you using? Wiring is a good place to start looking like Fred said.

 

And one other suggestion:

ADD A SIGNATURE

Use the "signature" feature to add info about your car - year, model, engine, tranny and any major mods. Not all years of the LT1 are the same. People need the basic info in order to give you the correct help.

 

hey guys just got home, sorry i thought my sig was not on ill check it out, well its a 94 z with headers and intake and 52mm thotle bodie, well after starting her up ran all right in open with slight miss fires now and when in closed loop i still hear the plugs arcing will find out better when dark and know i have no codes but engine shakes like hell but thats caused by the miss fires. the o2s are reading 100 to 830ish both sides but i do beleive theres somthing going on with the left side. iv checked everything on the exhaust system cant find any leaks nor around the egr, but i hear the check valve rattleing when the air pumps off is that normal. those are new too... i checked the wires to the pcm all looked great now on the dis they are both ac delcos the first one i put on a msd cap and button and the button was rubbing on the cap whitch coated the termanals with plastic then it got into opti part and coated that, plus i found out it wasnt holding vac leaking all around the cap wasnt sitting on the rubber o ring to well. the second opti i disconected the msd box no cap just put it on with new wires. this morning the car was at one point shutting off and i can hear the air idle valve kick up real quick can hear the kn suck air trying to maintain idle adn then the fans would kick on and shut right off, but its not doing it now thats why i think the pcm is acting up, computer at one time gave me a code 46 but that was taken off by pcm for less it all sounds like a ground some where checked all them too so i dont know. if theres any more info u need let me know thanks

 

alright just got dark and every spark plug is arcing around the nut of the plug, the screws holding the coil seams to be glowing blue, but no arcing... after a 30 min drive in the drive at idle when the fans come on for a sec and shuts back off and when thats happening the idle valve opens and shuts the fans off. what up with that. and when driving down the street looking at the scanner, i set it to start recording when a code pops up and it does but it dont leave anything. when i go threw the frams on the scanner one of the frams say i have a code but go to the next one gone, and the one with a code every reading is way off like alot of them say the same number like 255 on lt st trim and lot others no readings are correct at all like i said way off.. just on that fram tho. im still thinking its the computer but how u test one the book say tapping on it if bad will make the engine run ruff.. well it already runs ruff, just dont want to waste any more money if i dont have to. alls i know what ever causing the plugs to arc will prob solve all probs, because when cooled off in open loop runs great.. the o2s are new too and the wires looked good... so any ideas would be great thanks again

 

What scan software are you using? Its possible to have a problem with the data link connector output if you have high voltage interference in the data line. Arcing wires and plugs are going to cause high voltage intereference. That can be enough to corrupt the data stream.... I see it all the time in the data logs people send me to look at. I have never seen that problem traced back to a faulty PCM.

You have a set of codes that is very consistant with your problem. You have to read what I posted, and look for those problems. Have you checked the Opti harness connectors? Have you checked the ICModule wiring and ground?

 

hey, thanks for the reply, first i did check all wireing going to opti to com to ic to coil no breaks no nothing checked the ground to the ground block and got negitive ohm reading with engine off when on even higher - ohm readings dont know didnt know they can be negitive? oh i have a actron cp9185 works great on other cars but mine i guess keeps losing connection know like ur saying.. for the grounds i have one in front bolt of coil with the others and ran my own from the same bolt but against the cylinder head to the fender ground block, so yes 2 grounds in same stud after ic mode. when the opti was out i took the harness and tested all 4 with close to 0 ohm, i think it was 2... i have not yet found any corrosion on the car conectors so i put the diaelectric greese on all conectors. alright this morning i start her up ran great for a min then the fans came on for a couple min the air control kicks the rpms a quick suck of air then it shuts the fan off then the fan comes back on..... then i check the scanner for codes and i got 6.. 16 36 41 42 (46 but that the vatt right because thats not suppose to be there and u did ask why?) and 48 but on the scanner says 7 gr/S at idle and goes up with gas the ic is 44 at idle 650 idle. the spark advance goes from 22 to 25 at idle and the fuel trim lt and st all hover around 128 +/- 5.... man i was realy hoping to take her to boston in ten days just trying to get every thing right im in tn so it a drive... im going out to start tripple checking every thing again but ill keep checking in and again thanks for the reply, still need help thou lol...

 

alright back in from checking everything the ic has ground 12.4 a and d and b has about 1.9 to 2.0 ac. the coil checked out at 6k all around plus power to the pink wirer that goes to the coil.. took apart the conectors at the pcm the black on and the red i think and tested each one. so the wirering is save to say is good even to the o2s.. i guess the probs are know is that in the morning it gives all these codes and when i get home i start it and no codes but i can hear the plugs are still arcing and the motor shakes... so is it save to say its the computer now... or any other ideas or checks i can do the plug arcing on all 8 plugs is what gets me the most and when i put new ones in did the same. and one more Q how close can the O2 be form the y pipe iv got 2" and there pace setters mids never gunna buy them again just waiting for a reason to replace well thats all i can think of. thanks