Why not fix the opti and drive it make sure that trans is good before you open up a whole new can of worms without even knowing if the trans is right.

 

you're such a killjoy... even though i believe you are correct.

 

Thats a good point.. part of why i havent started yet. I also thought about just building a second engine when money permitted so that i could enjoy the car.. and build a more stout engine too.

 

Good point. I guess the more its discussed.. the more it sounds like i'll just enjoy the car as it is now.. then build a seperate motor on the side.

 

I've been here for awhile, kicked back and read alot, not posting a whole lot. I have a 2nd engine in the works right now that is nearly complete, it's taken two years, because of budget restraints aka the "Wife" . It's a fully forged 383 w/ gm847 cam, waiting on AI still for my Dart Pro 200cc heads and new intake. This way I can keep the original engine out of the car, if I ever decide to sell it.

It's better to start fresh, than to leave it to chance, as heavily moddifying a stock-used shortblock is not really guaranteed a proven setup, maybe for awhile, but not long. Problems will arise, and quite often at that. You're better off saving up and getting a new assembled shortblock 355/383 to put your time and money into. Aslong as it's put together right you'll have a good running, proven setup for many years.

 

Can you elaborate a little more on why you would recommend pulling the engine completely for a cam swap? I am not arguing your point, just curious. I am for the most part in the same boat as the OP (albeit I am replacing the opti and WP seals, removing A/C, etc.) After removing most of the accy. drive systems it doesn't seem as bad to change a cam as I feared. What else besides the intake manifold is there that would keep the OP as well as myself from doing this in the car?

 

Less leaning into the car makes for more comfort, comfort means less likely to try and cut corners. Also easier to keep everything CLEAN. Allows easier removal of oilpan so you can replace the oilpump relief spring(with a GM "white high pressure) and oilpump driveshaft with a metal sleeved one, $10 worth of oiling system insurance.

Absolutely can be done in car, I have done it both ways and will never do one in car again.

 

My knees are getting bad......cam swaps in cars are about done for me too, I think from now on they will just need to come out.

 

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