Just want to make sure before I go yanking them all out...if there's some that don't.

 

From what I'm reading here, it says "While the top row of bolt holes are supposed to be blind holes, I've seen some Gen II blocks with holes drilled too far, where the hole floors have been poked through. Just be be safe, apply sealant to all bolts to prevent coolant migration."

-How to Rebuild Small-Block Chevy LT-1/LT-4 Engines by Mike Mavrigian

 

Why take a chance?

 

Yeah exactly. Gonna be a long night.

 

Right...they all dont..but I always just apply sealant to all of them..

Cody

 

I didn't put any sealant on my bolts... was I supposed to?

 

I'm about to shoot myself in the friggen face.

I hate this thing.

So close to being on the road, now I feel like I'm 25 steps back. Trying to learn the tricks of how these plug wires come out, removign the belt & alternator, Fighting with these piece of **** Long Tubes that obviously aren't going to come out of the car any which way, unable to drain the drivers side block plug because I can't fit a regular socket on it, and a swivel socket will unturn it about 3 turns before jamming up against the motor mount bolt...I could keep going.

 

When I removed my stock head bolts, they all had sealant on them. When I installed my ARP head bolts, I applied sealant to all head bolts.

 

How much sealent did you guys use, I put mine in tonight and just ran a lil bead down the threads, that enough? As, is 60ft/lbs on ARP bolts with the sealer right?

 

When I did my heads, I grouped all my bolts together and put the same amount as stock in the same location. I squeezed the sealant about half way around the bolt and then ran my hand around the bolt while slowly spinning it in my hand. This put an equal amount of sealant around the bolt. Worked good for me.

 

Here is how to prevent leaks......

First all studs go into the water jacket on a stock block SBC.

1. Clean all threads in block w/ chaser tap,
2. Wash stud threads/holes with brake clean..... oil prevents the sealant from sticking & all studs come oiled.
3. Coat all threads w/ sealer. Use your finger & completely fill the threads.
4. Wipe excess off of deck sufrace.
5. Screw in studs & (this is important) start to torque before the sealant dries.... otherwise you may break the seal while tightening. Installing studs today & torqueing tomorrow may cause problems.

Some like ARP sealant, I use Permatex Ultra Copper with excellent results.
I never had a leak (fingers crossed) & have assembled over well 100 motors.
Hope this helps.

 

I didn't put any sealant on mine... Should I pull them out and put sealant on them? Will I see problems because of this?

 

YES!

If mine are leaking and I HAVE sealant, then I can guarantee that you're going to have problems.

Lonnie, thanks for the advice, I was kinda wondering that myself about torquing the heads down BEFORE the sealant sets, because if done after it will have the chance to shift.

Do you see a problem with me following that method you describe with the heads still on, doing 1 bolt at a time? Do I still need to chase the threads?Dunno how I'll get the thing that far down in the block...

 

You can do it 1 at a time. I've fixed other peoples installs this way.

With engine warm drain coolant. I recommend removing block plugs on both sides & radiator drain..... & waiting a few hours to allow everything to dry.
Do it right & do it once!!!!!

Remove 1 stud at a time, clean, dry & add sealer.
A little compressed air in the stud hole can help dry the block threads..... but the block plugs MUST be removed or you will create a mess with any coolant in the block. Screw stud in hand tight & torque the nut in 3 steps.

Repeat 33 more times & you're done.

 

I found that if the headers are removed, you can get a standard box-end wrench (ratcheting, if you have one) on the DS block plug by putting it on the plug from above and between the block and the engine mount. It works great, and will allow you to remove it easily and quickly. I have both straight and offset wrenches, but I can't remember which I used. Once you get the header separated, you should be able to get the block plug out fairly easily. Good luck!