Working on a cam swap and wanted to know if i needed to degree the cam? i have a repair manual and it does not reference the need to degree the cam...

can anyone shed some light on this? I went through shbox.com and i dont remember anything about degreeing the cam once its back in.

Help!

 

I guess it depends on the cam. If the cam will be at the correct degrees if it is installed straight up, e.g. 4 deg. adv.,then you shouldn't have to do anything. JMHO

 

Im new so i got to dumb it down a bit. If i unbolt everything and insert a new cam am i done?

 

What can is it?

 

Just make sure that its TDC on cyl 1 and leave it that way when you pull the old one out. Stick the new one in and make sure the dots line up, crank should be up and the cam should be down, I think.

 

going into a bone stock Lt1 with a 2K stall and 3.73 gears.

 

you can just put it in, the stall is too small.

Do you know how to set up springs etc. for the rest of the install? Might want to consider finding some to help that knows what they are doing.....for a first timer alot could go wrong.

 

The stall is too small? when i looked on the comp cams website they recommended 2K and above. Darn and i just had the transmission out for repair!

I havent done the springs before, but im going to take my time and ask questions when im not totally 100% sure of what im doing. Its not my daily driver so i can afford to stop, ask you guys, then resume.

Besides from keeping the valve from falling whats the tricky point of replacing the springs?

 

Getting the retainers in while depressing the spring and then making sure they don't shoot out in your face.

 

If your pistons are TDC the valve should not fall far. Make sure you get the correct spring compresser--one that fits underneath at the firewall. I believe Sears has one, but check with the site before you buy. Make sure you have valve stem seals if yours are shot. Check all of push rods for straightness (roll each on glass surface). Take your time. JMHO

 

I swear i thought about that after i sent the previous post. But the spring compressor that screws down should prevent the loaded spring from popping me in the forehead since you have to unscrew it which would gradually unload the spring right???

 

replace the pushrods with these. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku


More stall would work better. You can try out what you have...but 2800 or so would work alot better.

 

Yea it should, I was thinking of a compressor with the heads off, kinda different if your not careful it can release and shoot retainers.

 

I think the one from Sears is the screw type.

 

I will look into those push rods. they look pretty affordable. I guess i will talk to my tranny guy about upgrading the stall. With that higher stall i will also need to install a tranny cooler right?

the higher stall put the car higher in the rpm band as compared to a converter with a lower stall is that correct?