K guys...its me again. I realize you guys must be busy. No problemo. Anyway I did a lot of reseach and got most of it figured out. Just a couple of things left though.

1. The bowl: If your looking into it and grinding away....did you take out the majority of metal from the bottom around the guide or from the walls? ( I know ou have to thin the guides, I'm talking about the bottom)

2. Do you make like a moat around the guide or taper it up to the short side?

thanks guys

 

You guys are killin me

 

Take out material from the guide to make it easy for air to flow around it. Make the port roof as straight and as even as possible...... then keep that same idea when you get to the area around the guide. As long as you have smooth transitions you'll be ok. That's what I tried to visualize when I did mine, make it as straight a shot as possible, with the least amount of turns, bends etc. Around the guide I took out the majority of the material from the bottom on the short side, and some off the wall. Then I took most off the wall on the other side.

As far as your second question about making a "moat" around the guide, wtf are you talking about?

 

That's funny man laughed like hell when I read your post. Dunno man the moat part was all that came to mind when I thought about taking material out of the bottom of the bowl around the guide.

thanks dude. I'm still laughing.

 

Well I was trying to visualize it, and it's just too early in the day!! Around the valve guide, I just narrowed the guide as much as I could, and then made a little space on each side by taking out some of the wall, especially on the short side. I also took out some material to flatten the bottom. The other side is pretty much a straight shot, so I just smoothed it out.

John

 

There is like a lil knotch behind the guide opposite of the intake runner in the bowl. Did you take that out where it was gone? And did you take out a lot of material on the side closest to the exhaust port in the intake bowl?

 

There was only one area that I really took a lot of material out of, and that was the port roof. It's got a pretty good slant to it. I made it completely flat, and because of this had to take some material out of the roof as it goes and around the guide. I wish I had some pictures to show you what I'm talking about, but when you have a head sitting right in front of you, you'll see what I'm talking about.

John

 

Fast.......I got the intake runners down but what about the bowls? There is like a lil knotch behind the guide opposite of the intake runner in the bowl. Did you take that out where it was gone? And did you take out a lot of material on the side closest to the exhaust port in the intake bowl?

 

S.J.S.
Got your PM.

Actually I did take out quite a bit of material around the guide on the side facing the exhaust port in the intake bowl. I had to to do this so it would match up with the rest of the port roof. Note that I took more out of the roof than I did the side.

I really don't understand what notch you are talking about. If it looks like it's restricting flow then you might need to remove some material, if not just smooth it. Got any pics of what you are talking about?

John

 

The knotch I'm talking about is ....well if your looking into the bowl down in it from the exhaust side the knotch is 6 o'clock in the bowl right below the guide. It's in the bowl.

Also what the hell bit did you use for the bowls. They are so small how can you not hit the seats????? I get scared just looking at it.

 

Oh, that notch isn't gonna bother anything. I just smoothed it over. I used a bit made out of metal, for aluminum. It's tapered at the end and looks kinda like a cone. I bought it off the tool guy that comes by my work. I hit the seats a few times, but nothing major. I had a valve job done anyway.

 

I was just curious why you guys did the P&P yourself and if you would recommend others doing the same?

 

I did the port and polish myself because I like doing things myself. I see a lot of people talking up what they are doing to their car, "I'm putting X brand heads on with an X brand cam and longtubes etc etc etc". I understand that it's very hard to do it yourself and get a professional result, but I figured I'd try it, and it's much cheaper. I know these heads don't have the flow numbers of a pro job, but they are a lot better than stock, and I can always say that I did them myself.

Prices
heads(used) 200
materials 40
valves 160
springs 30
misc 50
machine work 420

 

Couldn't have said it better myself. Not to memtion I had a head guy himself telo it aint to hard to just clean it up and get good results.

 

Just buy an old head at a junkyard and play with that if you're afraid.

I myself have an old motorcycle that's my guinea pig. Just finished cleaning up the heads, clearing out all the casting flash and smoothing them out. This bike was my first piece of transportation over 14 years ago. It hasn't been registered since '98. I've damn near got it completely back together after 2 years (my wife can't believe it). For the last 5 years I've looked at the key to it hanging on the key rack, and wouldn't you know now that I need it, IT'S NOT THERE! Now I'm gonna have to hit a junkyard and get a new ignition switch and key. All I gotta do is put the other side of the exhaust on and she'll be ready to rip. Would love to hear it running again. Actually I thought I might just look at the wiring diagram in the maintenance manual and hotwire the SOB.

Am I off topic?