NVetro

I need an exact messurment between the brown face of the optispark and the back of the ballancer, but the hub, but the ballaner itself. I have a space of 3/4" and am trying to find out if its to much or to little...can someone with an engine on a stand with the opti/ballancer on tell me this info please...thanks in advance. I kinda need to know an exact messurment if you can...

NVetro

anyone? I know its a weird request but I need to know Has to be someone out there with an opti and ati ballancer on their motor on a stand

Dave89IROC

I'll measure mine tomorrow and post if no one else does, won't be till later though

Injuneer

Not an easy measurement to take from above, but a 7/32" (0.218") drill bit just barely fit between the back of the pulley and the tan epoxy face of the Opti.

Have you checked to see if you have the correct ATI hub? They sell 2 different ones for the F-Body LT1 and a third for the Corvette LT1.

NVetro

ATI said i had the correct one, I have their newer style one that has all 9 bolts being counter sunk torx. As opposed to 6 torx and 3 hex bolts...i guess I just gotta press it on more...

NVetro

OK, well obviously the 3/4" was wayyy to far away from the opti. I went to my engine shop and they gave me what they use to "send the hub home" after its been aligned on the crank. It was a 4x4 peice of sterdy wood and a mini maul...well I got her in with a few good wacks, obviously covering the ballancer face and hitting the wood and not the ballancer She is now a SMIDGE over 1/4 inch from the brown face of the opti....does this sound right? Looks like the belt would align good with the ac delete pully, belt tensioner and ps pump....any suggestions? I gave her a few good wacks after to make sure....and torqued the center bolt down to 70 ft/lbs....I did confirm that the washer is in there, and is required for my style motor (without CPS)....will this work?

NVetro

Injuneer perhaps you are not using the suplied space that came with your ati balancer? The shim is 0.093" in thickness, and if your ballancer is .218" away from the opti and mine is like 5/16 which is .325" Couldn't that mean you mite not be using the spacer since if u put the spacer on your hub it would be .311" pretty close to mine...what do you think? Do I have to go in more?

NVetro

I was thinking, i hope i didn't force it in to far agianst that shim and crush the berring thats on the rear main cap for the crank

Injuneer

I didn't assemble my engine, so I don't know what's behind the damper hub. I just know the belt is perfectly aligned with the other pullies, and has stayed on the engine for 5 years with normal revs to 7,000rpm and with peaks as high as 8,000rpm (don't ask me how that happened ).

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun...os/Coils01.jpg

NVetro

Well upon further inspection, it looks ok....belt lines up fine it seems....I torqued the crank bolt to 70 ft lbs of course, BUT the problem is, I can spin the washer....that means that the crank bolt is bottomed out correct? and is torqued agianst the back of the crank bolt hole and not agianst the head of the bolt? I need to use a puller and back out the hub abit right?

Bodacious Critter

Too long of a bolt? Maybe, maybe not. You do not want to pull the hub back. It is designed to be and must be seated. You could have damaged threads too. Remove the bolt if you can, run a 7/16" bottoming tap in carefully until you are sure you have cleaned up the entire length of the threads. Blow it out and install a new bolt of known correct length as well as verifying that you have the correct washer of the required thickness.

NVetro

It isn't to long of a bolt...i dont think....its the ARP crank bolt made for our cars: PN 070-134-2501 (SB-Chevy, 5/8" Socket w/ 1/4" thick washer). It has to be as simple as I pressed the hub/ballancer onto the crank to far by a hair aint it? If i pull it out abit it would torqe and seat fine...i must have drove the hub in to far....

Dave89IROC

repete, the dampers is supposed to be bottomed out, you are not too far in, and IIRC, a regular SBC damper bolt is incorrect, its too long........hmmm....

NVetro

I'm going to get the bolt out and messure it to the stock one....i'll take a picture also...

NVetro

OK I took the ARP Crank bolt out that i bought. It clearly states on the package (SB Chevy Balancer Bolt Kit) P/N 134-2501. This bolt is 3 1/4" LONG and has the 1/4" washer, it apears the stock bolt legnth is 2 1/4" long and has a 1/4" washer...this must be why it was bottoming out! I put the stock grade 8 bolt back in and torqued her down to 70 ft lbs....and its fine now...Check out the comparison picture i took of this....

http://www.webideas.net/94transam/38...r/dsc00073.jpg

It is 1" longer from head to bottom of the threads, Do I have the wrong bolt??? Do you think it's safe running the stock type grade 8 bolt in there as opposed to an ARP type bolt? Shoebox any ideas?