Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
#1
Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
So I had a thread recently where I mentioned the car ran bad with a new 'thepartsladi' optispark. Today I decided to take it apart and look for anything that was obviously wrong.
This opti probably has a maximum of 2 minutes of engine running time on it along with dozens of attempted starts.
The cap had all this brown dusty stuff in it.
And it looks like it might have come from the rotor here. It looks like it was grinding against something big time.
The little disk has evidence of rubbing on it as well. (On a side note I couldn't believe how flimsy that thing was)
It never threw any codes. I think something was either the wrong height or size and caused all the contact. That probably threw off the timing.
This opti probably has a maximum of 2 minutes of engine running time on it along with dozens of attempted starts.
The cap had all this brown dusty stuff in it.
And it looks like it might have come from the rotor here. It looks like it was grinding against something big time.
The little disk has evidence of rubbing on it as well. (On a side note I couldn't believe how flimsy that thing was)
It never threw any codes. I think something was either the wrong height or size and caused all the contact. That probably threw off the timing.
#3
Re: Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
I've been pretty happy with my Golen 383. I bought the 400hp long block for $5,500 4 years ago and after 25K miles it's doing great. It's got some cam surge and I usually add 1/4 - 1/2 a quart of oil between changes. I'm making 350 rwhp and 370 rwtq. Oh, and 23 mpg highway!
Begs the question, what happened to the first (1 2 or more opti's)?
This has to be at least the second one. So what's the problem? My car had the original opti on it when I bought it with 140K on it. I only put a cap and rotor on it and sold it that way years later. So why you having problems in less than 25K? Sure looks like a dowel pin issue to me.
Also thepartsladi does not sell those any more. Must tell you something.
Last edited by slopokrodrigez; 06-20-2013 at 05:43 AM.
#4
Re: Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
I agree with Fred. But here's the better question. You posted the above quote in April 2013. You been using it for 4 years and at the top, you posted this "This opti probably has a maximum of 2 minutes of engine running time on it along with dozens of attempted starts."
Begs the question, what happened to the first (1 2 or more opti's)?
This has to be at least the second one. So what's the problem? My car had the original opti on it when I bought it with 140K on it. I only put a cap and rotor on it and sold it that way years later. So why you having problems in less than 25K? Sure looks like a dowel pin issue to me.
Also thepartsladi does not sell those any more. Must tell you something.
Begs the question, what happened to the first (1 2 or more opti's)?
This has to be at least the second one. So what's the problem? My car had the original opti on it when I bought it with 140K on it. I only put a cap and rotor on it and sold it that way years later. So why you having problems in less than 25K? Sure looks like a dowel pin issue to me.
Also thepartsladi does not sell those any more. Must tell you something.
I wanted to try installing this opti again to see if it would resolve my 'cam surge' which I'm not 100% sure that's what it is. Based on all the reading I've done, it seems like the most likely explanation, I just wanted to rule out the opti.
Thanks for enlightening me on the dowel pin guys.
#5
Re: Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
See this
http://shbox.com/ci/ci289.jpg
#6
Re: Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
As usual, Shoebox has good advice:
Before you install the cam, it is a good idea to check the dowel pin length. Compare the new length to the old and make any adjustments if needed. If the dowel pin is too long, it can ruin a vented optispark in a short time (non-vented optisparks aren't driven by the dowel pin). Some have said GM specs indicate that the dowel should be .620" long (protrusion from the front face of the cam) for the vented optispark. Others have said it is supposed to be .685". Mine was actually .650" and still was in no danger of bottoming out in the optispark drive (I'm thinking .685" might be the max it could be). Here you can see the difference in the Comp Cams dowel (right) to the original. The CC pin was .840". That would put pressure on the back of the optispark and destroy it in a short time. If you have any doubts about the length, use some modeling clay (even PlayDoh :-) ) to test fit the opti and check the clearance. Comp Cams advises you to check all clearances.
#8
Re: Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
Well my dowel pin was no where near 1" long. And my "good" opti fits on it just fine. Main reason I didn't suspect a length discrepancy.
The first few times I tried installing the opti I didn't get the dowel pin in its socket and it really didn't drop into place. There was probably a centimeter of space between the mounting holes and block. That was obviously not correct. When I finally got it, there was probably about a millimeter like I said. I just didn't know it would be such a problem.
I can assure you guys, if I thought that tiny space between the holes and block was going to shred things up in there, I would have been on shoebox's site faster than you can say "catastrophic opti failure".
Ding ding ding ding We have a winner. Should have been the first sign when it didn't drop into place.
See this
http://shbox.com/ci/ci289.jpg
See this
http://shbox.com/ci/ci289.jpg
I can assure you guys, if I thought that tiny space between the holes and block was going to shred things up in there, I would have been on shoebox's site faster than you can say "catastrophic opti failure".
#9
Re: Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
You know, now that I think about it, since the old one ran fine for so long and actually wasn't bad when you took it off. I don't think your problem is the pin length. I think the bad opti was not assembled correctly.
Think about it. If the pin caused one to go bad in just seconds, why is the other still good after 4 years??????
As far as it not going on correctly, perhaps the cavity the pin goes in had flash around it.
Think about it. If the pin caused one to go bad in just seconds, why is the other still good after 4 years??????
As far as it not going on correctly, perhaps the cavity the pin goes in had flash around it.
#10
Re: Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
You only ran it for 2 minutes, and it "ran bad".... are you sure you had the dowel in the correct location? If it wasn't in the correct hole, that would account for running bad, the fact it wouldn't seat all the way, and the damage to the Opti.
The stock/OEM optical window disc is "flimsy". The disc from my original 94 unit has the same part # on it. It doesn't need bulk.
The stock/OEM optical window disc is "flimsy". The disc from my original 94 unit has the same part # on it. It doesn't need bulk.
#11
Re: Dissecting the bad opti - pictures!
You only ran it for 2 minutes, and it "ran bad".... are you sure you had the dowel in the correct location? If it wasn't in the correct hole, that would account for running bad, the fact it wouldn't seat all the way, and the damage to the Opti.
The stock/OEM optical window disc is "flimsy". The disc from my original 94 unit has the same part # on it. It doesn't need bulk.
The stock/OEM optical window disc is "flimsy". The disc from my original 94 unit has the same part # on it. It doesn't need bulk.
Here's a picture. You can see the mark from the dowel pin in the 3 leaf clover area from the first time I tried to install it and didn't realize I wasn't in the hole. Pushed pretty hard there but figured it out after a minute or two of getting nowhere. The mark you see next to the hourglass shaped hole on the bottom... I don't know how that got there.
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