Would it be a wise thing to do? I've tried everything I can to lower knock retard but it's still high.

When I first tested the car it was retarding up to about 13.
After a 160* thermostat and tune it was up to 5-6.
After a LT4KM it's now up to about 7-7.5

Also with the LT4KM it retards much more on on average then before. I always use 93 octane gas. Would it be recommendable to just disable it?

Also, could this be the cause (or a cause) in my poor gas milage?

And about how much power is being lost because of it? Any guesses?

Car has some noisemaking components for sure... headers and roller rockers.

 

I've also been getting knock readings like that since I put the headers and true duals on, and I've even tried 103 octane gas, so I'm pretty sure its false knock. I've also got the LT4 KM. I've done some searches and there is a resistor that can be used to disable the knock sensor without throwing a code. I think I'm just gonna send the pcm out to madwolf since I changed the gears anyways, and have him set a max knock retard to 2 degrees or something like that.

 

A knock module will help some, but if the knock sensor is still over tightened then the effect that the module will have is going to be limited as the sensor is still picking up a lot of false knock that it shouldnt. The sensor is located on the bottom of the block on the passenger side of the motor. Sorry I cant give a more discriptful location, its been a while since i retorqued mine.

 

I kept having the same problem. Im thinking i did over tighten mine after i took it off to drain my coolant. Anyway i got mine programmed out and so far so good. Just becareful if your using nitrous or anything of that sort

 

Before you do anything like disabling knock retard you need to determine if there is real knock/detonation/pinging going on or not.

Can you hear any pinging? Have you tried some race gas to see if the KR went away?

If you put in 104 unleaded or 110 leaded race gas and it still give you KR, then its relatively safe to say the knock is false. You could disable in this instance ONLY under the following conditions:

1. Disable it only at higher RPMS and higher MAP readings...
2. Leave it enabled at part throttle and low/mid rpm ranges to deal with high load, low RPM situations, like hills, etc, where you need the KR, otherwise you are going to get into situtaitons where it pings like an SOB and you'll be damaging your engine.

I've been racing my car several times a year at the track w/ KR disabled above 4000 rpm. I'm still on the original short block. As long as you don't have any real knock present, and you don't run too much timing, then it is safe to do.

5.0 Mustangs didn't come with knock sensors, they just ran a really conservative timing schedule. That's why those motors pick up so much with a timing adjustment.

 

Guess I should try some race gas. BTW here are 2 log files:

Knock/MPH/RPM/TPS only

Everything

 

[QUOTE=SnakeSkinner28 if the knock sensor is still over tightened then the effect that the module will have is going to be limited as the sensor is still picking up a lot of false knock that it shouldnt. [/QUOTE]


First things first, did you Tq the knock sensor or just crank it in with a wrench? It need's to be set at 14Ft Pnds of TQ. If you did that and still have knock you need to know if it is true or false knock as stated earlier. If you have done both, properly torqued the KS and determined it's false knock there are a couple of tricks that can be used other then disabling the KS. 1. try some teflon tape around the KS and if that doesnt work you can try a 90 ded. fitting. I personly would use every posible method other then disabling the KS before I gave up. I have a 383 with headers, CC 306, and a ZF6 speed w/fidenza aluminum FW, and Comp pro mag rollers and I get zero knock. If you ever get, or do have, true knock and have disabled the KS you have a good chance of destroying the motor. Is it worth the risk of getting one bad tank of gas and wrecking the motor?