Dipstick differences and 4 bolt mains
Dipstick differences and 4 bolt mains
Some of the LT1's came with 4 bolt mains, right? Then what did GM use for a dipstick to clear everything? I have broken 2 dipsticks trying to figure this out. Can someone please help. I have to have this car at Woodward in less then a week, and it wont quit eating dipsticks
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I just worked mine in alittle at a time bending it slightly as it went in......push alittle bend alittle push alittle bend alittle. The engine was out of the car when I thought to work it in so that made it easier.
Its not so much getting it in the hole, but they seem to get in the way of the Crank once they are in the hole. We had to cut the orginal tube down to fit, and I broke that messing with the headers. So I went with a Lokar and broke it in one day. The crank took the tip of the dipstick itself off. I'm stumped
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That is probably your problem. I was unable to get my dipstick tube in because of the oil pan being in the way which is also a Canton oil pan. I had to cut my dipstick tube shorter and then run a cut off dipstick with a correct length dipstick in the rear area.
Originally posted by dreamer1q
My leaking Canton piece of crap!!!!!
My leaking Canton piece of crap!!!!!
TIA!
Yup. I noticed on my new short block 4-bolt main that checking the oil is a bit tricky.
Takes two hands to quide the dip stick back in.
Seems to sit forward more than the stock 2-bolt block.
Takes two hands to quide the dip stick back in.
Seems to sit forward more than the stock 2-bolt block.
I have Pro-Gram Engineering splayed 4-bolt caps with a Canton pan. I had to use a tubing cutter to get the dipstick bolted in place. Then I used a pair of pliers to turn the end of the dipstick ~180 degrees. I had to play with it a little but now it works fine.
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