difference between 355 and 383
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 156
From: walnutport, PA
355 is 30 over bore on a 350, which is 4.030 bore. and stock stroke crank which is 3.48".
383 is the 30 over bore (4.030 bore), with a 400ci crank, which is 3.75 stroke.
if you go 40 its a 385, if you go 60 over its a 388 (all with the 3.75 crank).
40 over 350 is 357ish, and 60 over is about 360.
aaron
383 is the 30 over bore (4.030 bore), with a 400ci crank, which is 3.75 stroke.
if you go 40 its a 385, if you go 60 over its a 388 (all with the 3.75 crank).
40 over 350 is 357ish, and 60 over is about 360.
aaron
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Posts: 1,444
Here's some useful boring/stroking info I shamelessly ripped form another thread:
Originally Posted by OutlawZ
here's the skinny on LT1 buildups.... it all depends what you're looking for. there are quite a few non stroked NASTY LT1's out there in the 355 cubic inch variety as well so depending on your budget don't get super dedicated to having to stroke it....
355 ci LT1:
Bore: 4.030 (.030 overbore with an .030 oversize piston)
stroke: 3.50 (stock stroke)
rod length: 5.7", 5.85", 6"
notes: 355's don't get the additional torque of a stroker motor. upped compression for more power is almost a must. Also a 6" rod 355 has one of the best piston/rod ratio in the game. more dwell time at TDC, more complete burn will usually result in more power. Try to get compression up to about 11.5:1 to 11.75:1. Will still run on pump gas at those levels. Good heads/intake also a good idea... you can use the stock crank but I would at least 2 bolt stud the main caps while you're down there.... good quality h-beam rod as well for bottom end stability.
383 ci LT1:
Bore: 4.030 (same as above)
Stroke: 3.75"
Rods: usually 5.85 or 6"....
notes: 383's will get the added torque from the increased stroke. same deal with compression as a 355. Definitely get a good forged crank as well as rods and pistons. Lunati, SCAT, or Eagle at a minimum. Block clearancing is required for rod bolt clearance but it's pretty minor and any competent shop can do it....
396 ci LT1:
Bore 4.030 (same)
Stroke: 3.875"
Rods: i've only seen 5.85's
notes: again more torque from more cubes and more stroke. block requires alot of clearancing and be careful because you don't want engine man to cut into a water jacket reducing block to garbage. with custom work i think you could use a longer rod possibly but not advisable... i have limited experience with 396's.... i personally like the 383 route since you can always clearance more later if you want the 396 and 13 ci isn't a whole **** ton of an increase....
355 ci LT1:
Bore: 4.030 (.030 overbore with an .030 oversize piston)
stroke: 3.50 (stock stroke)
rod length: 5.7", 5.85", 6"
notes: 355's don't get the additional torque of a stroker motor. upped compression for more power is almost a must. Also a 6" rod 355 has one of the best piston/rod ratio in the game. more dwell time at TDC, more complete burn will usually result in more power. Try to get compression up to about 11.5:1 to 11.75:1. Will still run on pump gas at those levels. Good heads/intake also a good idea... you can use the stock crank but I would at least 2 bolt stud the main caps while you're down there.... good quality h-beam rod as well for bottom end stability.
383 ci LT1:
Bore: 4.030 (same as above)
Stroke: 3.75"
Rods: usually 5.85 or 6"....
notes: 383's will get the added torque from the increased stroke. same deal with compression as a 355. Definitely get a good forged crank as well as rods and pistons. Lunati, SCAT, or Eagle at a minimum. Block clearancing is required for rod bolt clearance but it's pretty minor and any competent shop can do it....
396 ci LT1:
Bore 4.030 (same)
Stroke: 3.875"
Rods: i've only seen 5.85's
notes: again more torque from more cubes and more stroke. block requires alot of clearancing and be careful because you don't want engine man to cut into a water jacket reducing block to garbage. with custom work i think you could use a longer rod possibly but not advisable... i have limited experience with 396's.... i personally like the 383 route since you can always clearance more later if you want the 396 and 13 ci isn't a whole **** ton of an increase....
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