Yesterday after work, on the second attempt the car started up and I was able to get it home. I had checked the the electrical and vacuum harness for damage, I didn't notice anything. If it's not the opti, I guess it won't hurt to have a new one. I am gonna install it today. The water pump is less than a year old, so I am gonna put it back on. What gaskets are needed, just the two for the water pump? I saw something in a diagram where there is a pair of water pump driveshaft seals, do I need new ones? Also I just noticed yesterday that the hose with the bleeder in it (not the one going to the thermostat) is leaking right down to where my opti is. That could be a contributing factor. Does anyone know where to find the connector with the bleeder for that hose, or the entire hose? Its leaking right next to where the rubber meets the metal, so I don't think I can just cut it and fix it. http://shbox.com/1/bleeders.jpg

 

I think replacing your opti will fix most if not all the issues. Opti failure causes some crazy stuff sometimes. Water on the opti a always an issue. Just the two gaskets for the w/p the drive seals are in the timing cover.

 

I found the heater hose assembly on shbox.com. Would it be bad if I eliminated the connector with the bleeder for now until the part comes in the mail if I order it? Cause it takes a while to get to me, I think it comes from NC if I order it on gmpartsdirect.com.

 

You don't have to, if either of them are wrong, it would set a DTC.

Made sense if the sensor that detects a misfire has a problem, it wouldn't set a code for what it monitors....Duh

 

Well I replaced the opti last night, took a while. The old opit was very corroded, and if you spin the back it rattles and and is restricted. I think one of the screws backed out.
Drove the car for a short while this morning. Feels much better, no backfiring, no stumble. Won't know if the manifolds are glowing still until night comes. No codes for the short spin. I hope it stays that way, I don't want to get too excited too quickly.

 

Yeah, I was going for "diagnose before tossing piles of cash at it."

Looks like he got it fixed.

 

Well, the car seems to run normal again, but the p0336 code is still there. I don't get it.

 

Either PCM or more likely wiring between the 2. check for 12 volts and ground to the sensor. Then Ohm from the sensor yellow wire to the red pcm connector, pin 1.

 

Also check for a high voltage wire too close to the CKP wiring.

 

I took of the crank position sensor and it had a lot of scratches. So that can only mean I have a loose reluctor wheel? Now I have to open up my timing cover?