To figure out when the intake valve opened, I spun the motor with dial indicator in the pushrod hole and mapped the valve events with a degree wheel. There was some confusion for me as to how much 'lash' (.002, .006 as I recall) to use in the calculations, which left me with a little uncertainty in my DCR, but only a point or so.

'95 Blackhawk mentioned multiple tricks. The ones that come to mind for me are:
- keep it cool (low temp stat, more water in coolant mix, lower fan on points, better airflow)
-Polish chambers & remove any sharp corners so no hot spots form
-Tight quench
-Add fuel by running open loop & fooling MAF or Injector constants for non-PE conditions (not preferred IMO)
-run PE all the time (even less preferred IMO)
-pull timing where it knocks
-and after all is done, I still don't floor it at low RPMs where I already have 0 advance (<~2K & 70-90 MAP).

Anything else? Please elaborate.

 

with his calculator I need to know intake lobe centerline to calculate when my valve would close. I guess I need to call loyd. or wait until I get my cam spec sheet. I accidently left it in the persons car that i bought it from. he is mailing it to me.

good tips everyone.

so based on everyone input. and since I already have the cam. I will do whatever it take to get a 9.1 or 9.2 dynamic compression ratio. If i need to, I can trade my pistons in for the -5cc flattops that would raise my compession quite a bit.

 

That's pretty much what I did. I would take a lower DCR to get good quench if that tradeoff arises. High DCR with too biq a quench is not a good tradeoff from what I have learned here.

 

so basicly, if i use a .039" gasket.. and I leave my deck alone and there in the hole any, im not going to have good quench. I need to add how deep the piston is plus the gasket thickness to get quench. and I want under .040" total correct?..

so im kinda stuck here since my heads already have a set ammout of conbustion space.

 

I had the same pistons as you. 5.7 rod. My pistons were .010 in the hole. Using the Mr.Gasket 5716 (.026) my quench was .036 . With the cam you have and how I worked it out with Lloyd, we should be at 9.0:1 DCR. Your static, if you use the same set up I had, will be 11.8:1. I had no issues with knock. Never pulled timing, verified using datamaster. My combo pulled thru 6400 rpm, even pulling to 7k. I watched my factory tach peg.
Still don't think this cam is big enough for you? From what I gathered from you before you just wanted a tough *** street car but now it sounds like you want something that will rev to the moon. If I was you, I would be very worried about my puny little 10 bolt in the back. Good luck with it!
Your heads are 54 cc. The numbers are on my work laptop, which is at work. When I can, I will email the numbers to you.

 

oh sweet. thanks for chiming in.. I didnt want to keep bothering you with these questions. You have helped so much already. Thanks again..

Im just going to do the exact same thing then. tried and true!.. I will return my gaskets and get the .026".. then put the slugs 10 in the hole.. then I can be done with this complaicated stuff and get to building.

Im still just looking for a street car.. and I originally planed to just get the bottom end done with the stroker kit, but they I got the heads and all kinds of other stuff came into play.. I just want to get it done and get it done right. Im prety much set.

So, Im going to go bring my crank and rods into my machine shop and tell them what I need. bet that will tack another week onto it. they seem to work slow. grr. but its good work I was told. they have had my block 2 weeks almost!

thanks for all the help

 

2 weeks.... Mines been in almost 2 months and they finally ordered my stuff. He is very busy... with work and home life, I might get it together for the last Real Street Drags at WIR in October.

 

lol.. yea it sucks.. where did you take your stuff?.. I took mine to manitowoc motor machining. My tech school has connection with them. we bring all are blocks to them and they do them at a discounted rate.. so he let me have the cheaper rate. wich is maybe why its taking so long, they put it on the back burner. oh well.

Well I hope I will be all built in time for that in october. if I am I will see ya there!

 

Tiry Race Engines in Ripon. He is extremely busy, it's race season. He built the motor for a guy I work with. BBC in a dragster. He runs 7.4X @ 180+MPH in the 1/4. He does good work but he can only do so much at once. I'd rather have him do it when he can get to it rather than have him rush to get thru it and make a mistake.

 

oh yea, it will be worth the wait.. no need to rush threw it..

I forgot to comment on the rear end thing. lol, yea Im sure the rear end wont last to long.. I am going to run it into the ground, the I will see whats avalable. :-)

 

Don't use the Mr.Gasket head gaskets. Use the Victor Reinz gasket from Napa. PN# 5898 . Same Gasket with out the packaging issues. Around $25 each . I had mr .Gaskets and I had packaging problems.

 

oh snap. sweet. thanks for the tip. I will do that!

 

Freeze the gaskets before opening them and you won't have any issues.

 

Why? Check this link out:

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...11&CtgID=20320

 

look at that picture. the cylinder holes are not even close to being a perfect circle. I went and looked at the ones I have now and they look even worse.. geez, I tought they would be perfectly round!

but good price. I pad like $36 or somehting each for mine. maybe it was 26 but still!