SILVOLITE CLAIMER PISTONS H3426
HASTINGS MOLY RINGS 2M139
CLEVITE ROD BEARINGS CB663P
CLEVITE MAIN BEARINGS MS909P
MELLING HI-VOLUME OIL PUMP M55HV
FEL-PRO PERFORMANCE GASKET SET HS9966PT & CS9966
DURA-BOND CAM BEARINGS CH8
PIONEER BRASS EXPANSION PLUG PE100B
PBM PERFORMANCE DOUBLE ROW 3 KEYWAY TIMING SET 700
PBM PERFORMANCE HYDRAULIC VALVE SPRINGS 3000 (1.250 OD 110#@1.700 300#@1.250 .500 LIFT)
PBM PERFORMANCE CHROME MOLY RETAINERS 501S
PBM PERFORMANCE 7 DEGREE HD KEEPERS
PBM PERFORMANCE CRANKSHAFT 3.750 STROKE 1 PIECE SEAL


FOR AN ADDITIONAL $200 YOU CAN GET FORGED I-BEAM CONNECTING RODS FOR THIS KIT. WE CAN BALANCE THIS KIT FOR AN EXTRA $225.

this is the kit that im looking to buy to make my 350 lt1 a 383....How do the parts list look? Assume i will have balanced and use the i-beam rods.

 

You can find much better sets for much less money... Do some research, and you will find them. For example, my stroker kit, which consists of: 4340 forged crank, 4340 H-beam rods, SRP lightweight forged pistons, Clevite 77 bearings , Mogul rings, all internally balanced, cost me $1650. Good luck.

 

well the price for this kit is $600 bucks.....Or is it a piece of **** kit? If it isnt worth 600 bucks then i dont want it....but if it will support a good bit of power then ill jump...please help.

 

I got the same set for 1300. I ordered regular Hyperpuric stuff and he ordered me the forged by mistake. Gave it to me at cost.

As far as 600 bucks.... I always use this saying and live by it (to an extent)...."You get what you pay for."

 

i agree with SJS, you get what you pay for.
jesse

 

I found it better, atleast in my case to just piece my stroker together, I would go with well known or brand name parts if possible also.

 

Where'd you get that deal from?

 

good god, if you are only spending 600$ on a stroke kit, there is one of a few things happening:

its a model kit for a snap together car
its out of a cereal box
its a hoax
its JUNK
ETC

If you read the sig, im doing a 383 currently, the crank was more than 600.

 

Yup....you get what you pay for.

 

A local performance shop called Automotive Engineering. They only have branches in Florida, though.

 

If your power expectation is low (say below 450 at the crank) then this kit will work, with those pistons dont ever expect to run nitrous or forced induction.
One thing to note, it may take another 6 to 900 $ to balance it.
The rings they are using will seat good initially but wear out quicker. Also your list id missing the connecting rods, I see the bearings (which are a good brand) but the rods are omitted, is this your mistake or is this the kit.

 

i cant really agree with that, the cheapest rebuild kit i could find was ~360. What kind of forged crank can you find for less than 500?

 

4 bolt splayed billet main cap conversion
Callies Dragon Slayer forged steel crankshaft
Callies Parabolic Billet I-Beam connecting rods
SRP forged flat top pistons (dished available for low compression applications)
JE Plasma Moly ring set
Clevite 77 race bearings
Fully balanced and blueprinted
Fully assembled short block


OK....I see that the kit isnt worth it so this is the newer kit im looking at...does it look any better than the first? I would eventually be running N2O on this stroker kit and possibly forced induction. Any comments?

 

looks ok. i would make sure the people building it for you really know what they are doing. also know that the heads are going to be a big issue in how your motor turns out.

ALSO NOTE: super and turbo chargers are not something you add on later. The motor is built for it. I have a cam i had custom ground that i decided not to use if you are interested. big lift with 114 lobe to keep boost in chamer longer...250, i paid 300. Build the motor when you have the money, not part by part.

 

i can get you a good kit for around $ 800 now it aint the best but it will hold together and good to 600 hp/ its made by eagle/ save up and call me (814)455-8854 sean p.s that kit is junk