I'm having a hellova time installing my fluidampr part # 740101. I threaded a rod into the crank and it started going on fine, but it will not bottom out. I've got a cloyes double roller timing chain with the 24X reluctor ring in front. I can still move the reluctor ring about 1/8". Also it was extremely hard to get it installed as far as I did. The nut ended up stripping the the rod. Also the crank is a Callies "Stealth" 4340 3.75" Stroke Crankshaft - Internally Balanced. Do I need to get the dampner honed or something?

 

You are going to have a hard time getting it back out now, but I think that is what you need to do. After you take it off lube the crank and hub with a lot of assembly lube, be sure the key on the damper is lined up with the key on the crank, install your threaded rod and try to get a impact wrench on the new bolt to tighten it up.

 

I already put assembly lube on the crank snout and used both a 1/2" breaker bar and an impact wrench in hopes to drive it on further, but the threads couldn't take the abuse. I don't think it should be this hard to install. I realize its an interference fit, but this is ridiculous.

 

You sure it's not bottomed out against the reluctor ring?

 

I can jiggle the ring around, so its got at least 1/8" to go.

 

Are you using at least a grade 8 threaded rod and bolt? Thrust washer? You could clean up the inside of the damper with some emery cloth and warm it up slightly in the oven before install.

 

X2, the grade 8 rod will take the abuse it take to install one right.....

 

Definitely make sure you are using all grade 8 hardware and that the thust washer is pushing the damper on evenly. Sounds like you have a very tight interference fit and prob should have had this honed a bit prior to ease installation. Without a very accurate gauge though, its not something you want to have done.

Be sure that the rod threaded in the crank is not taking abuse as well as you install the damper. Last thing you need is to screw up the crank threads or snap the rod off.

Once you have the quality hardware, heavily lubricate the rod threads and the thrust bearing. I used arp ultra fastener lube.

Good luck!

 

I'm using a fluidampr and cloyes double roller on my callies stealth crank too.

I don't remember if it was my fluidampr or my other balancer that I honed... but I found a socket that fit tightly inside the hub and used valve lapping compound and spun the socket with a drill to true up the inside diameter. It fixed it. Don't make it too loose though. I think I also used the crankshaft shim behind the fluidampr.

 

Makes me glad I bought an ATI. I can just about push the hub on by hand.

 

I got it on. I took a fine grit sand paper and finely sanded the inside of the hub and then applied a heat gun to the hub portion and applied some assembly lube. Slide on with just enough tension. But not I'm having trouble with the balancer bolt not being long enough.

 

I bought a 7/16" fine thread bolt from a hardware store and used a few washers.

 

That looks like the only option. ARP doesn't make anything longer than the standard bolt. Would stainless be stronger than grade 8?

 

Grade 8 is what you want. I am lucky to have a place just a mi away from my house that sells nothing but bolts and nuts; they have every hard to find fastener you can think of.

 

no.