Here's a .jpg of my spreadsheet:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...uildsheet1.jpg

The original problem was a spun bearing. Took out the crank (wore .028 off it), and a nice worn area on the cylinder wall. Also wore 2 lobes off the camshaft, and some flat spots on a couple lifters. Rod was also toast.

Pretty much ruined everything with it.

So, I need a total rebuild. I figured best bet is to just go w/ a 383 stroker, which I'm getting via my engine builder thru Scat. ( I coulda gotten it cheaper elsewhere, but he's giving me good prices on machining and some good prices on parts).

My heads are getting ported by a friend in Ohio, not sure how good they're going to come out, but supposedly he's not too bad at it. I'm going to get them flowed, and from there call up combination motorsports for a cam reccomendation, and get that valvetrain package.

Flat top pistons, he's expecting ~10.5:1 compression, and he's expecting it to put out ~450 flywheel horsepower. I know A LOT of that is going to come down to what the heads flow, and camshaft selection.

Do you think it's possible with the parts I mentioned? I might go with some Comp Cams lifters instead of the clevite ones he can get me, a lot of things are still open. I'm just trying to do this as cheap and reliably as possible (Which is 2 opposites), while still making good power.

From what I hear, the piston is going to sit .025 in the hole, I'm debating on spending the $100 to deck the block as well to tighten up that quench area.

Race gas is not an option, this is everyday driver. I can get 93.

What do you see that I might be missing? Anything that I can NOT do that's listed to save some money? Any reccomendations on specific companies for the generic parts I listed? I was *hoping* to keep this to ~$3000. I know for damn sure if I spend $4000 and don't put out at least 400 flywheel HP I'm going to be PISSED OFF!

Thanks,
Dave

 

450 FWHP is achievable as long as your heads flow good and u got a nice cam. Dont feel bad about your stroker rebuild.

Mine cost me about $15,000

 

ummm, you can get 400fwhp with just a hot cam and bolt-ons let a lone a 383 with ported heads and cam. There are several guys on this board that have done 383 and had them put down 500+ to the wheels on pump gas. What kind of cam are you going with? I assume that with good heads and a decent cam 500fwhp should be absolutely no problem. $3000 is a tight budget considering you have to include heads and cam as well, if it were for just the shortblock I'd say no problem but unless you're getting some great deals I'd guess once everything is back in the car and it's running you're gonna be looking at a minimum of 5k, and that's considering you do the removal/install work yourself.

 

I think you're getting by pretty cheap but a few suggestions:

1. Scrap the Jethot longtubes unless you already have them. Remember you'll need at least another $200 or so for a Y-pipe. If you want LT's that fine, but in the mean time buy some used MAC shorties to get you by for now.

2. Ditch the Stage 8 locking bolts too, it only takes a few minutes to re-tighten header bolts. If you use good gaskets (Felpro) you may not have to do it at all.

3. Ditto on the electric waterpump, nice to have but not nessecary. Of course that means you'll have to ditch the double roller timing set too.

4. You're going to spend more than $80 on gaskets. Hell the head gaskets alone will cost that much.

5. Your stock oil pan might not fit anymore with the extra stroke.

 

$15,000!!! It better perform services to me for that much holy cow!!!!

500+ to the wheels?!? I'd be VERY VERY happy with that. Damn then I'd need a new clutch! LOL I JUST bought a SPEC Stage 2 clutch 2 weeks before the engine went. Just got it broken in. Supposedly good for 450HP. I hope it lives up to it!!!

I'm going with one of combination motorsports cams, getting their package that comes with the Roller Rockers, springs, locks, and retainers. Specs unsure att.

I'm doing all the install/removal myself.

How do you figure $5000+? Check out that spreadsheet at the top of my post...It SHOULD stay around $4000...I hope

Soma,

1. Yeah I don't have headers yet, but no way in hell i'm putting on the stock manifolds, plus I dont' feel like fixing the studs. I know a Jet-Hot dealer who's going to get me a price on them today, hopefully it's pretty good. To be honest though, once this thing is back togother and in there, I'm never touching it again, until my 2 Mustangs are done, and one of them is getting a 351W and a Turbo, so that's going to be quite a project, where I want to dump my money Good point about the Y-Pipe.

2. As far as I know, headers need to be retightened after the first heat cycle since the gasket shrinks correct? So I'd have to do it once anyways... I've got Stage8's on the mustang. I'm not sure how accessible the header bolts will be with headers, but I guess I'd just rather not fuss with header leaks. Luck of the draw I guess with bolts loosening...haven't decided yet

3. Water pump: Not gonna put my stock 110K miler back on to have it crap out again in a few months with my luck. I figure a little extra for an electric and I can free up some HP too. Same with the timing set, not going to put that same stock crap back on... :-/

4. I'm not too sure on the gasket set, that's what my builder gave me for a price on a gasket set. I'll talk to him when I get back to see exactly what's included...


Thanks guys! You've got good points on the areas you mentioned, not sure if I will be stubborn or not. Like I said, once it's togother, it's done. Not touching again, so I'd rather have it all the first time

 

TTT!

 

I built one for about 2500 (ball park!) that was doing all the work myself, with no topend work. (tried to talk friend into it. Didn't work haha)
Anyway it runs pretty good with the stock heads and cam, I know most people say you need the topend done if you do a stroker. It's nice but if you don't have the money right now, do it later. I believe this motor will run a low 13, possibly high 12 if we could get some traction.
Id go for the double roller as an expense. To me the stock gears and timing chain sucked. It had a lot of slop in it which I didn't really like. I think there are some places you may be able to get a oversized crank sproket, so if you do go with your build up, I'd look into that. (if you keep the stock timing stuff). Anyway, GOOD LUCK MAN

By the way, 15,000 seems REALLY HIGH for a rebuild, How much power is that motor making?

 

Yeah I noticed that timing slop too. Blech!

Thanks!

BTW, yeah, what's up with that $15K rig!

TTT

 

500+ at the wheels on N/A performance? you do realize that would mean you would have to make atleast 600HP at the flywheel right? I think you might be over estimating a 383 stroker LT1's N/A HP potential just a little.

 

i have about 4k in my motor to give you an idea of price so i bet a 383 built right with good heads would be close to that 5k mark.

 

EHHH Who the hell robed (is that with car price) you before you built the engine. 3800 for my blower motor all forged with heads done. Take a look on the web page. It should not cost a penny more than mine, considering forged crank for a 355 is the same price as a 383. I just dont like strokers and if i where you go for a 355. Under no conditions should it cost more than 5k! 450 FWHP is a walk in the park and no problem at all!

 

I went into my engine to replace the intake manifold gasket! When I was done I had ported and polished heads, roller rockers, new cam and couple of other little goodies!!!! It snowballed from a gasket to half the things you see in my signature!!! Man, this hobby costs big $$$ and is kind of addictive!! I think maybe we should start an F-Body's annon group for those of us who can't stop spending $$$ on our cars!!!!!

 

No doubt!!! Try having THREE cars I've had a freakin 5.8L Ford turbo kit sitting here since January for my yellow coupe

http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/PTK/kit.jpg

 

according to your web page this is your parts
PARTS,
Labor
ss valves 160
3angle v/jo 125.00
chain & gears 88.00
surface v8 42.42
Forged SIR I beam rods 230.00
Port polish375.00
Forged SRP 8.50 to1 453.00
R&R pistons 52.56
035 molly rings 109.35
Boil Block 35.58
Forged Eagle crank 201.00
Boring 145.44
Roller cam 224/236 240.00
In cam BRGS 32.59
lifter crane 130.00
Freeze plugs 25.25
springs/retainer/locks 135.00
BAL v-8 225.00
SFI flywheel 59.95
LG Block *** 400.00
Comp pro mags RRS 280.00
Min labor 80.00
Push rods 88.00.

Gaskets 150.00

total in parts 2323.00
Total labor 1538.84


First off my head porting and parts to assemble cost near $3000, so there is your budget right outthe window.
Too much u say??? well compared to the $250 you spent did the outcome look like this???

http://www.clanulf.com/tazcar/gallery/chamber.JPG
http://www.clanulf.com/tazcar/gallery/export3.JPG
http://www.clanulf.com/tazcar/galler...hedintake2.JPG

solid cam setup im running 260 durration @ .050 lift. EXPENSIVE cam! looking at $500 plus

After looking over your parts list you have no where near the parts I have and you seem to have bought the "lower" end stuff.

As far as your eagle crank for $201, must be used or it sure isnt forged. My SCAT crank from eagle was $1000.

I also have JE forged racing pistons vs the cheaper SRP forged unit, I and more expensive Eagle H-Beam rods. Oil pan is $450.

Also not to mention that I had my block splayed for 4 bolt caps. the block was square decked. the rotating assembly was blue printed and balanced. That bill was over $1000.

Our goal when we slap this baby up to teh bench dyno next weekend is to make 525HP N/A and 750HP on a dual stage NX wet Nitrous setup.

Im glad you got what you were looking for on a $3800 budget. But this motor is being built to with stand 7000 RPM shifts on 250HP + of nitrous. I did not cut corners on this engine. I want it to last and handle whatever I thow at it without breaking.

 

Damn those are some sexy heads!!! I hope mine come out that good!!!