I wonder where those numbers came from.

 

Got the info from this thread.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...=535446&page=2

 

I have the painless 30 amp kit I just never installed it. Don't ask why I don't know. I will more than likely install it before the car drives again next summer .

 

You lack basic reasoning skills.
What turns the electric pump? The electrical system which is run by the engine through the alternator.

If you honestly believe that you can do more work(flow) by changing rotation to electricity and back to rotation then you need to go back to the 1800s and work with the scientists of the day on perpetual motion, because that is what you are talking about. The average elementary school child knows that is impossible.

It should be noted the available mechanical flow data is as restricted by the engine, the electrics are freeflow rated. This is a simple impeller, not a positive displacement pump so it matters a lot.

 

Problem is a new GM pump is over $200. If it was $50 it wouldn't be a question and I would replace it with that. Another good thing about the ePump is I can get a double rolling timing set now for under $100, instead of having to buy a $300 stock replacement timing set when I install a cam. Also, as I already mentioned, no more worring about the weep hole bleeding on my new opti because the weep hole gets plugged.

So far, the only thing negative with the electric meziere that i've read is related to the relay failure/wiring. I'm making a sealed relay box and waterproof connectors, so I should be good.

How does it move LESS water when it moves 55GPM? I think thats more than stock?

 

Ok, I'll be the sacrificial idiot you can blast here. While I quite understand the concept of a perpetual motion machine and why it's impossible, how can one explain the net horsepower gain when switching to an electric pump? To me it's simply a matter of efficiency...if the electric pump were only as efficient as the mechanical one, there should be no net gain....

Sure, the next arguement is that the pump is not more efficient than the mechanical one, it simply flows less coolant. If that were the case, my engine would run warmer than it did with the mechanical pump. It does not. And I suspect you'll find that most other electric pump users will relate the same data. Of course, we could all be wrong, a sort of mass hallucination, but I doubt that's the case.

In any case, I don't really care what pump people put on their engine...it's their engine after all. For my use, daily driver, occasional weekend drags, the Meziere HD pump works extremely well. Others may experience different results....

 

As I already stated electrics are FREE FLOW rated.

As has already been covered at idle the electrics do move more, but then what you can't seem to wrap your mind around is the engine doesn't make much heat or need much cooling at idle either.

The "new" GM pumps have a pretty poor record, I like the $50reman from Advance serves me just fine. Been driving LT cars exclusively for just about a decade and put something over 210K on them.

Far as the flow thing and the HP gain, those of you capable of elementary school level science understand, most of you don't. Guys even put up flow data for stockers showing over 60gpm at 4700rpms and that is as installed yet you still believe the electric freeflow rated at 55gmp moves more. You could understand it if you WANTED too but you are too busy BLINDLY defending your uneducated decision.

I am not saying the electrics are insufficient, I am saying make an effort to comprehend the mods you do.

Far as measured data, I have datalogged a car with a Summit electric WP, car ran warmer at 70mph in 45deg weather than moments later at 30mph.

 

Quote
You lack basic reasoning skills.
What turns the electric pump? The electrical system which is run by the engine through the alternator.

If you honestly believe that you can do more work(flow) by changing rotation to electricity and back to rotation then you need to go back to the 1800s and work with the scientists of the day on perpetual motion, because that is what you are talking about. The average elementary school child knows that is impossible.
Quote

You argue that a 6amp draw off of the battery is equivilant to resistance to driving a mechanical pump- therefore no gained HP. Its almost like saying- you will lose HP running your headlights or any accessory. I have to disagree. Juice is pulled from the battery and not the alternator. The alternators job is to keep amps moving into the battery to maintain full charge.

Flame away !!!

 

Here's another random thought, Is any pump actually moving 50ish GPM? I assume that's just a rating of the pump itsself, seperate from the cooling sytem. That would be like completely cycling all the coolant through the system every couple seconds. That would be quite the torrent when viewed from the radiator cap opening lol.


I also think the electrical pump would be more efficient. It's like 80 watts, about 1/10th of a hp. Assume a huge percentage for conversion losses and you're still way under 1 hp.

 

I have said over and over again the electric pump DOES result in a power gain at the wheels, most of you are just too feeble minded to understand where that power gain is coming from.

You argue the electrical system gets it's power from the battery?? The battery is there to start the car and provide a backup in case of high demand spikes, the alternator runs the electrical system.

 

Yes, the power gain comes from the fact that the electric pump is moving less water at high RPM, and its at high RPM that you measure peak HP.

While the electric system may pull power from the battery at some times, the bottom line is that all that power came from the belt driven alternator. If you allow the system voltage to drop at high rpm in an EFI car, you will get in trouble.

 

Got it, thanks. I always thought of the battery basically being a tank full of charge and everything pulled power from it and alternator would refill... but i'm wrong, your right.

 

It doesn't really matter how you look at it, it's a common system. If you draw power from the battery, the battery will start charging (from the alternator). The battery "stores" electricity, but the alternator is where it's all coming from. All electrical power the car uses ultimately 'comes' from the alternator.

 

Yes, that is what SHOULD happen. But mine was still dripping through the weep hole so I would recommend to use the freeze plug and some JB Weld (or something similar) just to make sure that you can be sure it is sealed the first time. Kind of a pain to have everything all built back up and then find that it is leaking. Just my recommendation.

 

Maybe the freeze plug was not installed properly. The plug goes in from the inside of the pump and block water from ever even getting to the weep hole. I coated mine with some RTV and pressed it in with a socket using my shop press.

Looking inside the pump housing, you can see the weep hole boss just above the freeze plug in this pic.