Are you serious? So it would be pointless to go 2 bolt studded with all that work being done?

 

Yeah I'm serious.

Well why put a forged crank in a block that will move around and take out the crank? The motor is only as strong as the weakest link.... and if you stay with the studded 2 bolt, don't go to a forged crank.

As for the 11:1 compression ratio... might as well keep your bottom end questions all in one thread.

11:1 would be perfect for a daily driver LE2 package, problem is IT'S NOT EASY TO DO WITHOUT SOME CREATIVE THINKING with stock LT1 castings and a 383.

Bret

 

Too bad no one offers an off the shelf 10cc dished piston for a 383.

 

Try Probe Industries for your cast or forged and pistons.
Been using um for 15 years and not a failure,knock on wood.
If ya need help let me know.

 

Its, all in my sig
My car is a daily driver and it runs just about like stock 15 MPg city 22 HWY avg. The 306 IMHO is the perfect cam for the 383 in a street set up for a daily driver. You may get a few more ponys out of a more radical cam but it will not be as smooth as the 306. It is just loke my hot camed stock bottome ned motor before this.

 

Yeah, I have no problems with Probe's stuff. Like I said though, they don't offer an off the shelf 10 cc dished piston. 12.8cc or 4cc is it for a 383 with 6" rods.

 

There are other ways to use the 12CC dish and come out with the same number on the bottom line.

 

you got 414rwhp with a 383cid & 195 AFR Heads.. Hmm interesting.. I think you should get much more hp & torque..

 

It's low cause the motor is in a Corvette.

Just kiddin. It's not bad for a mild 383. Adjust for drive train loss and he's at 487 hp. That's 1.27 hp/CID. Imagine adding a 100 or 150 shot on top of that.

 

Drive shaft loss?? Has that Corvette got a driveshaft?? Anyway hp and torque seems pretty low to me

 

LOL, Yea, we have three of them, Not sure how well it will hold up to my 383

 

So then I should suck it up and splay it?

Is it true that for the machine work involved, it almost levels itself out between the Callies and Eagle rotating assembly? Because of the all the balancing and what not? I heard that the Eagle rotating assembly needs to have the weights shaved off and all this extra junk while the Callies doesn't have that... so then after its all said and done, its easier/better just go to with the Callies products...

Is Callies really that much better then Eagle? For $400 more?

 

I've never seen that... A 383 Forged Eagle can easily fit in the block and be balanced to a heavy blower piston and con rod so I don't see where the problem would be.... the only differences I have seen are what I said above.

If you go forged... go 4 bolt

Bret

 

I think he's referring to actually balancing the crank with mallory metal. Even with a little extra metal to balance an Eagle crank, I doubt it will make up the $400 dollar difference between the two cranks.

 

YUP, only i'm going full EXTREME on mine with the T56-M6

Only thing stock is body, and some interior