Cylinder head bolt re-torque...
Cylinder head bolt re-torque...
Just got finished installing my LE2 heads. I am using ARP bolts with ARP lube , Impala head gaskets all torqued to 60# like ARP states.
I am aware that re-torqeing head bolts is a very good thing, I also understand that getting the lower 7 bolts requires pulling headers which I am not looking forward too down the road. My future of working on cars is coming to a halt with twins coming in less than a month.
I want to know if these are options worth considering:
1. Just torque to 65# now and go with it.
2. Loosen each bolt one by one and torque to 65#.
Any other better sugestions?
Thanks
I am aware that re-torqeing head bolts is a very good thing, I also understand that getting the lower 7 bolts requires pulling headers which I am not looking forward too down the road. My future of working on cars is coming to a halt with twins coming in less than a month.
I want to know if these are options worth considering:
1. Just torque to 65# now and go with it.
2. Loosen each bolt one by one and torque to 65#.
Any other better sugestions?
Thanks
That is comforting, I have always wondered how GM as well as others get away with it on new motors.
My car was in the shop having the shorties replaced with a set of longtubes a couple of weeks after a friend and myself did the H/C swap. Since the shorties were coming off I asked them to double check the head bolts, and they claimed they found few that were not thightened up to spec. I know we did it right and maybe they were BSing me. But I'm glad I had them double check. Just passing along my experience, take it for what it's worth.
[edit] I noticed on another bulletin board you said you used sealant. Here you say you used lube. Which was it? If you only used lube, it could be the cooling system pressure is pushing the lube out the bolt threads (soon to be followed by coolant). Head bolts need thread sealant, because they go into water jackets.
Last edited by shoebox; Sep 4, 2008 at 06:45 PM.


