This thing started blowing fuses. I found that the hot wire coming from the battery was shorting out. I figured that had to be the problem. I fixed that and it works great.....only when the engine is not running. When I start it, a couple of seconds later it blows another fuse. Has anyone else had this problem? What reason could it be that it only blows after startup? Thanks.

 

Where are you drawing power from? (direct to the terminal junction?)
Are you using a relay? (if so, what are you using as a trigger?)
Using an existing ground? (where?)
Did this just start all of sudden, or is this a new install?

Something is causing current draw to spike.
Hopefully the answers to the above questions help explain how this all relates to the car being started.

 

Yes...direct to the terminal junction
Yes I am using a relay. I am using an ignition hot from the fuse box as a trigger
Yes...grounding point on driver side head.
This is not a new install. It has been working perfectly for about 2 years. This problem just started.

I haven't looked into it much. I was getting ideas of things I may be overlooking. Your reply did give me an idea though. I might look into my trigger curcuit to see if there is anything going on there. Thanks and keep the replies coming.

 

Could be a shorted winding on the stator, bascially a bad motor.

Do you run coolant in the motor? Reason I ask is I have seen plastic water pump impellers shatter from trying to pump slush on a cold day with an improper coolant mix. Probably not that cold in Alabama though.

 

you may have the same thing that happened to me... the impeller spun itself off of the motor and lodged against the waterpump housing. The motor can't turn so the fuse blows out... If you have some time pull the electric pump off and take a look. Its a design flaw pretty much, all they would have had to do is put the opposite thread on the motor shaft. I was on a hard spot so i bought a mezere and the csr sits in a box in my room...

 

The csr has an aluminum impeller, just a FYI

 

Whoops, I did not mean to imply the impeller was plastic but it does read that way.

What I was trying to say is that the pump motor could be drawing too much current if it is pumping slush or frozen stuck causing the fuse to pop. I just had a brain fart and didn't finish the statement....oh well.

 

Yes I run coolant. It does get pretty cold here but nothing like up north. There is no slush or ice. And the motor is good. Like I said it pumps fine with the car not running.

The impeller did not spin off. I'll say it again....the water pump works fine with the car not running.

I don't know what it is. Everything else in the car works fine.

 

What circuit are you feeding the relay control side with? If its an existing circuit in the fuse/relay box under the hood there may be a problem elsewhere on that circuit such as a bad air pump motor.

 

The air pump is gone but I know what your saying. I will look into that.

 

hey I had the same problem with my csr water pump, and I had to grind some of the fins on the impeller. They were rubbing on the water pump housing causing the impeller to stop. This will cause it to blow fuses.

 

I finally got some decent weather to get to the bottom of the problem. Come to find out, the seal on the back side of the impeller has been leaking coolant into the electric motor portion of the pump. Funny thing is, it will still work for a few minutes eventhough it is full of water. I am sending it back to CSR to be rebuilt. Thanks for the replies.