I've got the new Moroso pan, pickup, and oil pump. The pan is going back in exchange for another one of the same type. This one has a high and low spot on the pan rail right at the passenger's side front corner hole. It's bad enough to make me feel that the gasket could not seal it.

Other than that, the rest of the pan looks really good.

The oil pump has the grooves as shown on the Moroso website. I'm assuming that since the pickup has a bracket to bolt the pickup to the pump, that the depth is correct....but I will check it to be sure when my exchange pan gets here.

I've already got my engine ready to come back out. Just have to drop the k-member bolts, tranny cross member bolts, lift the body, and out it will come. I hate having to exchange the pan(more waiting)....I think my Dad could press it straight, but I'd rather get one stamped correctly. For almost $300 it should be.....

 

Keep us posted.

 

I've got an update.

The engine is on the stand and my replacement pan arrived today. I just got done with the test fitting and this is not a bolt on operation. There are issues.

On the stock pan, there are curved reliefs on both pan side rails for clearance of the knock sensor(or sensors in the vettes case...IIRC, it had 2 knock sensors)....and on this Moroso pan....it's straight. So, the knock sensor threads in just a couple of threads before hitting the pan rail. There is no way around not modding the pan to make this work if you are running a knock sensor. I can't believe Moroso missed this issue on the LT1. Sloppy engineering work for such an oversight.

The stock windage tray has to come off...no big deal. However the built in pan windage tray does hit the stock main cap bolts that hold the stock windage tray. That is a big deal....can't bolt the pan down. So you will have to get 3 new main cap bolts(or cut the windage tray ends off the stock main cap bolts).

The back curved rail(the rolled edge) is not as thin as the stock pan so it appears that the pan does not fit the pan gasket correctly. However after some measuring, the fit seems okay(as far as the surface area contacting the gasket compared to the stock pan). It's just the wider roll flattens the molded end of the gasket down(the molded ends that the cradle the pan rail on the bottom curve of the pan gasket). I don't know if this will distort the pan gasket or not. I'll try to get some pictures or video of all this.

I'm on the fence on keeping this thing. For ~$300 I expected a proper fit. I don't want to have to go cutting up the freaking pan to run a knock sensor. But on the other hand, if it solves the oiling issue.....decisions....decisions.

 

...and the oil pressure drama goes on and on.
Keep us posted.

 

I had this same problem with my supercharged 94 Z-28, changed the pump ,pickup, filter etc.The solution was to run 4 quarts of oil and no more.The problem is windage,5 quarts is too much oil for the stock pan.Try it.

 

Hmmm.....

Well, the pickup that goes with this pan is 5/8 vs the stock 3/4. Any issues in using a 5/8 inlet pump vs a 3/4 inlet pump on an LT1?

 

GM changed from the 5/8 to the 3/4 during the 94 model year. I can only guess that it was done to provide a benefit. Whether it was more volume or what, I don't really know.

 

I did some searching online just to see if I could find an answer and here is what this gentleman says...

"The point at which cavitation starts to occur depends on pump speed and the size of the pickup tube, says Osterhaus. “Up until the early 1990s, GM used a 5/8˝ OD pickup tube on its V8 engines. In 1993, GM changed to a larger 3/4˝ tube that flowed better and produced less cavitation. We still make the M55 oil pump for the older applications, but recommend the newer M155 pump with the larger inlet as a retrofit for better oil flow."

From this article....
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...echnology.aspx

From what I can tell, Moroso does not make a 3/4 pickup for this pan.
I'm going to take a look at the Canton pickup and see if it might work with this pan.

 

Canton does make a 3/4 pickup for the 242T.

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...on&key=15-242T

Since the Moroso pan looks to be very similar and the same depth...... I'm going to try the 20-013 Canton pickup. Just ordered it from Summit. We will see if it will works with the Moroso pan and the stock pump.

 

I've got an update.

The Canton 3/4 pickup worked well with the pan. Just a little over 3/8" from the bottom of the pan. The engine is in the car and wired up.....but I ran into a problem with the exhaust.

My drivers side stock cat will not bolt up with this Moroso oil pan. The pan kick out is hitting the bottom of the cat. I've got a Magnaflow 96-97 cat on the way. It looks to be a little smaller than the stocker. If this does not work, I will have to move to headers. I'll find out tomorrow.

I want Kooks, but don't want to drop $1500 on them so close to Christmas. My next choice is Mac(TF9450), but I have no idea if they will build them anytime soon. I tried to get them about 2 years ago, but after 6 months of waiting after placing my order with them....I canceled it.

I hope to have some good news on my oil pressure issues soon.

 

If it aint one thing its two others.
Hoping to hear some positive results.

 

A swing and a miss....

The Magnaflow cat did not work either....the fitment of it was worse than the stock cat. The size of the Magnaflow cat was perfect...cleared the driver's side kickout, but the bends in the piping did not work with the passenger's side of the pan. Back to Jeg's it goes.

I guess I'll try to explore some more options and let you guys know when I find something that works. What a pain.

 

Well....I just went ahead and bit the bullet.

I ordered the Kooks 1 3/4" x 3" headers(coated) with the catted y pipe. That was painful to the wallet..but they will do away with my exhaust headaches for good....and free up 20-25hp to boot.

I'll update again after they are installed(expecting at least 2 weeks).

 

Updating....

I've got the headers bolted up. The header fitment is dead on the money. Kooks really did their homework when designing these long tubes. I'll get some pictures up in the exhaust section later. They went in without jacking up the engine, but I do have new poly motor mounts. There were some issues with the y-pipe not fitting the catback tube(y-pipe was 0.040" bigger than stock). I had to take some pieces to a local exhaust shop to get them hydraulically expanded.

I did break my gauge coolant sensor when installing it back into the head of all things. I pulled the socket of it after torquing it and the plastic end was laying in the socket.

I was hoping to fire it up this weekend, but I think it's going to be after I get a new GM temp sensor. Hopefully next week. I have old O2's ready for the headers and will swap in my "good" ones after a few heat cycles.

Slowly but surely.

 

I fired it up today.

I put the high pressure oil spring back in oil pump. Had a solid 40 psi at around 190* temp. I won't know if I solved my pressure issues for a few days. I'm going to be gentle on it for a while before I hammer it.

I will say one thing....damn those headers smoke and smell!!! After that thing got up to temp, it started burning the oil and curing the coating in the headers. Man, that coating throws off a terrible smell. It actually gave me a headache.

From what research I've done, it shouldn't last more than a day or two, but I'm going to have to get that thing out of the garage and outside to let it idle for a while. Just got to put the hood back on it and re-tighten the header bolts after it cools back down.